With the holidays upon us, this will probably be my final post until after the New Year, and it will be a short but important one.
Yesterday, I went into one of my favorite pet supply stores (which will not be named). As I browsed the isles, I noticed many new displays, most of which held colorful and adorable Christmas items for pets. As do most pet owners, I gave in to temptation and selected a few items to put in my cart, and that is when I noticed something that really concerned me....gorgeous and appealing rawhide treats decorated in Christmas themes, with strips dyed green and red to appeal to the human buyers (because as we all know, dogs don't care what color it is. They don't see color. All they care about is the smell.)
I know that I have seen these things in holiday seasons past, so what really got me was how many seemed to be missing from the displays. That must mean that they were purchased by unsuspecting dog owners. Unfortunately, that probably means that our local veterinarians will see a spike of dogs needing surgery over the course of next several weeks, but I know that those poor dog owners don't see it coming.
The reason is that they don't know that rawhide is actually completely indigestible for dogs. Dogs can digest pig hide (though it takes some time), but they cannot digest cow hide. So, the best we can hope for when giving our dogs these treats is that they will chew them into small enough pieces to be passed through the digestive system without causing a blockage. However, power chewers are unlikely to take the time to chew it into small enough pieces, and are likely to swallow large chunks if they can get them soft enough to swallow. Those large chunks, especially if there are several of them going through the system at the same time, can very easily cause blockages, which almost always ends in expensive surgery with an extensive recovery period.
So, we all love to buy gifts for our dogs, and may even stuff a stocking for Fido, but please resist the temptation to purchase those cute little Christmas rawhide wreaths, bones and other shapes. I don't even understand why they still make those things, because, at best, they are of no value to our dogs, and at worst, they can be very harmful.
Happy Holidays, everyone. We wish everyone a safe and happy holiday season, filled with family, friends and beautiful blessings. Be sure to come back and join us in the New Year for more Chihuahua and general canine tips!
Tips and General Information for Chihuahua Owners and Lovers
Friday, December 14, 2018
Thursday, December 6, 2018
Don't Forget Fido During the Holidays!
First, I am sorry I have been M.I.A. for a couple of weeks. With the holidays upon us, things have kicked into high gear for us, as they probably have for you as well. That is, in fact, what inspired today's post. As pet owners, we must be mindful of our furry family members during this busy time of year.
With family and friends coming and going, all sorts of cooking happening and new scents available for dogs to sniff, shiny or sparkly Christmas trees and gifts sitting around and a host of other changes that happen in our daily routines during the holiday season, it is critical to remember the effects that the holidays may have on your canine family members. We discussed appropriate holiday foods for dogs in the Thanksgiving week post, so we will skip that here.
But, it is important to remember a few others things during the holidays. First, that shiny Christmas tree with sparkling lights may be irresistible to dogs (and cats). It is not uncommon for family pets to knock Christmas trees over trying to get a better look at them. If you have a chewer in your home, you may want to be especially mindful of this, because once the tree is on the ground, it is a prime candidate for chewing dogs. Electrical cords can shock a dog when chewed through, and glass ornaments should be viewed as a sure trip to the vet when bitten and/or swallowed.
If you have a real tree, you may experience other problems if Fido knocks down the family Christmas tree. Sap from evergreens can be toxic to dogs, and needles may cause tummy upset, vomiting or diarrhea if eaten.
To prevent access to the Christmas tree, consider putting it in an area that is not readily accessible by your family pets. Other options include putting a fence (usually an exercise pen or something similar) around the tree or putting a baby gate up in the entrance to the room when you are not able to closely supervise your dog.
For those shiny, enticing gifts that are under the tree the dangers are lessened. Generally, wrapping paper and cardboard don't pose too much of a threat if chewed or eaten. However, if your dog eats copious amounts of cardboard, it can clog the intestinal tract and require surgery to resolve. That would have to be some kind of chewer to cause that result though, especially if your dogs are little, but I assume that you would still prefer your dog not chew up the gifts. If you have a chewer, you will want to protect those gifts in the same manner as you protect the tree! Fencing the tree area or setting the gifts up on a table next to the tree might be good options for protecting those gifts.
Finally, be mindful of the effects of added traffic in your home during the holidays. Many dogs will be fine having numerous people in and out of your home, but for others, the added traffic may be a source of stress. You will want to learn to identify the signs that your dog is stressed by the increased traffic in your home. The most common signs are excessive yawning when interacting with your or your guests, disappearing and hiding in a remote corner of the house and sometimes even acting with more aggression (barking or growling) than usual. If you see these signs, you need to act immediately to alleviate your dog's stress.
I generally advise people to crate train their puppies from the very beginning, and this exact scenario is the reason why. If your dog is crate trained, then he recognizes his crate as a safe space, and you can simply crate him during high traffic events in your home. If he is not crate trained though, then to alleviate traffic-related stress, get your dog's favorite toy or treat and guide him to a quiet room of the house where your guests will not go. Generally, your bedroom is a good place for your dog to wait out the event. If he seems put off by the noise of the event, then turning on the television or radio on low volume or a white noise machine (if you have one) should help to alleviate that stress as well.
Just remember, our pets experience the holidays right along with us, but it is not always fun and games for them. For some pets, the holidays are a source of stress that can ultimately impact their health. So, please be mindful of that and keep an eye on those furry family members. If you see signs of distress, please help them. They are counting on you!!!
With family and friends coming and going, all sorts of cooking happening and new scents available for dogs to sniff, shiny or sparkly Christmas trees and gifts sitting around and a host of other changes that happen in our daily routines during the holiday season, it is critical to remember the effects that the holidays may have on your canine family members. We discussed appropriate holiday foods for dogs in the Thanksgiving week post, so we will skip that here.
But, it is important to remember a few others things during the holidays. First, that shiny Christmas tree with sparkling lights may be irresistible to dogs (and cats). It is not uncommon for family pets to knock Christmas trees over trying to get a better look at them. If you have a chewer in your home, you may want to be especially mindful of this, because once the tree is on the ground, it is a prime candidate for chewing dogs. Electrical cords can shock a dog when chewed through, and glass ornaments should be viewed as a sure trip to the vet when bitten and/or swallowed.
If you have a real tree, you may experience other problems if Fido knocks down the family Christmas tree. Sap from evergreens can be toxic to dogs, and needles may cause tummy upset, vomiting or diarrhea if eaten.
To prevent access to the Christmas tree, consider putting it in an area that is not readily accessible by your family pets. Other options include putting a fence (usually an exercise pen or something similar) around the tree or putting a baby gate up in the entrance to the room when you are not able to closely supervise your dog.
For those shiny, enticing gifts that are under the tree the dangers are lessened. Generally, wrapping paper and cardboard don't pose too much of a threat if chewed or eaten. However, if your dog eats copious amounts of cardboard, it can clog the intestinal tract and require surgery to resolve. That would have to be some kind of chewer to cause that result though, especially if your dogs are little, but I assume that you would still prefer your dog not chew up the gifts. If you have a chewer, you will want to protect those gifts in the same manner as you protect the tree! Fencing the tree area or setting the gifts up on a table next to the tree might be good options for protecting those gifts.
Finally, be mindful of the effects of added traffic in your home during the holidays. Many dogs will be fine having numerous people in and out of your home, but for others, the added traffic may be a source of stress. You will want to learn to identify the signs that your dog is stressed by the increased traffic in your home. The most common signs are excessive yawning when interacting with your or your guests, disappearing and hiding in a remote corner of the house and sometimes even acting with more aggression (barking or growling) than usual. If you see these signs, you need to act immediately to alleviate your dog's stress.
I generally advise people to crate train their puppies from the very beginning, and this exact scenario is the reason why. If your dog is crate trained, then he recognizes his crate as a safe space, and you can simply crate him during high traffic events in your home. If he is not crate trained though, then to alleviate traffic-related stress, get your dog's favorite toy or treat and guide him to a quiet room of the house where your guests will not go. Generally, your bedroom is a good place for your dog to wait out the event. If he seems put off by the noise of the event, then turning on the television or radio on low volume or a white noise machine (if you have one) should help to alleviate that stress as well.
Just remember, our pets experience the holidays right along with us, but it is not always fun and games for them. For some pets, the holidays are a source of stress that can ultimately impact their health. So, please be mindful of that and keep an eye on those furry family members. If you see signs of distress, please help them. They are counting on you!!!
Wednesday, November 21, 2018
Thanksgiving Feast for You, but Not So Much for Fido
Happy Thanksgiving! We are very busy this time of year, as are you, more than likely. So, this week's post is relatively short and sweet. It discusses the dos and don'ts of Thanksgiving dinner for dogs.
First, DO share your turkey day meal with your pet. During the holidays, we often want to celebrate with our favorite fur critters, and we can do that as long as we are mindful of the things that are toxic to dogs. So, here is a short list of Thanksgiving foods and a few notes on the safety of them for your furry friends.
Yes, you can feed your dog turkey..but DON'T feed him the skin. Usually, turkey (and other poultry) skin stores all the butter/oil and seasonings used on the turkey, so it can be quite rich...much too rich for your dog. However, even if you didn't season your turkey at all, the skin is still a no-no for dogs. It is very fatty, and can cause pancreatitis! So, peel the skin from the meat and feed your dog a little bit of turkey meat, and you will be his favorite person!
In general, anything made with a lot of seasoning is something that you DON'T feed to your dog. Seasonings can cause diarrhea, bowel irritation, stomach upset and vomiting. So, a little bit of mashed potatoes may be fine for your dog, but if your dressing/stuffing is heavy on seasonings, as most are, it is probably best not to give it to your dog.
Next, beware of onions. DON'T feed your dog anything with lots of onions in it. They can be toxic to dogs in the right quantity. So, it is probably best not to feed Fido that green bean casserole with all those yummy fried onions on the top (does anyone still make that?). However, assuming that they are not highly seasoned, DO feed your dog plain green beans, roasted carrots or even unseasoned/unsweetened yams or sweet potatoes. Those vegetables are perfectly acceptable for dogs.
Similarly, beware of fruits. DON'T feed grapes and raisins, which are common fruits used in holiday foods, as they can be toxic to dogs. However, apples, pumpkin (plain pumpkin, NOT pumpkin pie filling), pears and many other fruits are perfectly acceptable, so DO feed those.
Finally, be very careful about feeding sweets. DON'T feed pumpkin or sweet potato sweets that contain nutmeg. Nutmeg can cause neurological problems in dogs. Also, be very aware of the amount of sugar you are giving your dog. Sugar is not a part of a dog's natural diet and many dogs are very sensitive to it. And of course, any kind of chocolate is a no-no for dogs. Chocolate is toxic and can be fatal in the right quantities. So, it might be best to refrain from giving your dog a taste of your holiday sweets altogether!
Thank you for supporting our blog. I hope everyone enjoys your holiday tomorrow. Happy Thanksgiving!
First, DO share your turkey day meal with your pet. During the holidays, we often want to celebrate with our favorite fur critters, and we can do that as long as we are mindful of the things that are toxic to dogs. So, here is a short list of Thanksgiving foods and a few notes on the safety of them for your furry friends.
Yes, you can feed your dog turkey..but DON'T feed him the skin. Usually, turkey (and other poultry) skin stores all the butter/oil and seasonings used on the turkey, so it can be quite rich...much too rich for your dog. However, even if you didn't season your turkey at all, the skin is still a no-no for dogs. It is very fatty, and can cause pancreatitis! So, peel the skin from the meat and feed your dog a little bit of turkey meat, and you will be his favorite person!
In general, anything made with a lot of seasoning is something that you DON'T feed to your dog. Seasonings can cause diarrhea, bowel irritation, stomach upset and vomiting. So, a little bit of mashed potatoes may be fine for your dog, but if your dressing/stuffing is heavy on seasonings, as most are, it is probably best not to give it to your dog.
Next, beware of onions. DON'T feed your dog anything with lots of onions in it. They can be toxic to dogs in the right quantity. So, it is probably best not to feed Fido that green bean casserole with all those yummy fried onions on the top (does anyone still make that?). However, assuming that they are not highly seasoned, DO feed your dog plain green beans, roasted carrots or even unseasoned/unsweetened yams or sweet potatoes. Those vegetables are perfectly acceptable for dogs.
Similarly, beware of fruits. DON'T feed grapes and raisins, which are common fruits used in holiday foods, as they can be toxic to dogs. However, apples, pumpkin (plain pumpkin, NOT pumpkin pie filling), pears and many other fruits are perfectly acceptable, so DO feed those.
Finally, be very careful about feeding sweets. DON'T feed pumpkin or sweet potato sweets that contain nutmeg. Nutmeg can cause neurological problems in dogs. Also, be very aware of the amount of sugar you are giving your dog. Sugar is not a part of a dog's natural diet and many dogs are very sensitive to it. And of course, any kind of chocolate is a no-no for dogs. Chocolate is toxic and can be fatal in the right quantities. So, it might be best to refrain from giving your dog a taste of your holiday sweets altogether!
Thank you for supporting our blog. I hope everyone enjoys your holiday tomorrow. Happy Thanksgiving!
Monday, November 12, 2018
Treating Toby: Tips for Feeding Healthy Treats to Reward Your Chihuahua Without Causing Weight Gain!
Ah treats...they're wonderful things! They can be used by us humans to make our doggies do just about anything. The manufacturers make some of them smell good enough that we consider tasting them ourselves sometimes. Oh and many of them come in resealable packages or tubs with lids so they don't become stale. Indeed, dog treats are a most helpful and convenient invention. BUT.......they must be used in moderation for most dogs. Many treats are very high in calories and can very often put unnecessary weight on your dog. We see too many overweight Chihuahuas (and other small breeds) whose owners are having no luck getting the weight off and they ask us why? Our first question is...what do you feed your dog? Very often, the owner will tell us that when it comes to treats, they are small and the owner considers them to be insignificant, so they will give them 10, 12 or more a day. That's WAY too many treats for any dog, especially a small breed.
Small breed dogs are more prone to become overweight than larger breeds are anyway, and adding those extra calories with unnecessary treats does not help that. Your dog should not receive more than 4 to 5 treats a day, and treating should be reserved for training, or perhaps just to give your dog something special during the course of his day. If your dog does not have a tendency to become overweight, you're probably alright to continue with whatever treats you prefer to give him, although there are healthier alternatives. But if your dog has a weight problem, we have some recommendations for treats which are tasty and much healthier for your beloved pet.
The first one is our favorite, and you can buy it at our favorite place...that's right, Wal-Mart...is PupCorn. They are little doggie shaped, popcorn looking treats. They are very low in calories, which makes them less likely to put weight on your dog, and dogs LOVE the taste. Our dogs adore them!
However, if your dog enjoys the soft, meaty treats, we have several recommendations for that as well. Sniffers treats, which you can buy at PetSmart and other pet supply places and online, are very small, training size treats, and dogs really enjoy them. In fact, many manufacturers make tiny meaty treats now. Bil-Jac, Blue, Science Diet and many others are beginning to understand the weight issues that our dogs face and the necessity for pet owners to treat their dogs without sacrificing their health. Bil-Jac makes a tiny liver treat and a variety of other small meaty treats that you can purchase at most pet supply places, and our dogs love them. For a more holistic type of treat, Blue also makes a line of tiny meaty training treats that dogs respond to very well. The Train Me treat line (from pet supply places) which are training size, meaty treats are excellent too. Basically, for the meaty treats, the smaller the better, as these are often the ones that do the most damage to a dog's waistline!
Biscuit treats can also put weight on your dog. It is rarely necessary to give a dog, especially a small breed, a large biscuit treat. TreatCo (which can be purchased at www.jefferspets.com) has a line of small biscuit treats. These treats are so small that actually the small size that they sell is a training size, bone shaped biscuit. The medium size biscuits will also make a good size treat, even for overweight dogs. Old Mother Hubbard also has a line of very small biscuit treats that are all natural. Charlie Bear is another good biscuit type small training treat.
Another wonderful treat for dogs is yogurt treats. These tend to be somewhat lower in calories, but pack an enticing flavor that most dogs cannot resist. Pooch Passions and Vitrakraft both have a line of these that are a decent size treat, but for the overweight dog, only one of these per day! Other manufacturers are beginning to make smaller versions, but we have yet to try any of those. All of the above mentioned treats can be found at either www.carealotpets.com or www.jefferspets.com.
Then there is a variety of "health foods" for dogs, including treats. The dog food company, Nutro, makes a line of foods and treats called Ultra which are supposed to be a healthy alternative to regular treats. We can't speak for them though as we have not tried them. Also, there is a line called Wellness, and one called One Earth Natural Dog Biscuits, which you can find at www.carealotpets.com All of these are supposed to be all natural and wholistic to promote your dog's health.
Finally, perhaps the best treat that you can give your dog is whole, fresh fruits and veggies. Many dogs LOVE apples, carrots, cucumbers, bananas and other types of fresh fruits and veggies. Even a tiny bit of raw chicken or turkey makes an excellent treat now and then. Just remember, make sure that fruits and veggies are fresh (never canned or frozen, unless frozen with no sugar added), and thoroughly washed to remove pesticides. Also, make sure that when feeding raw meat, you clean up after your dog with bleach to prevent salmonella poisoning in the humans in your home.
Whatever the treat you choose for your dog, we recommend that you do not discount the effect that the treats can have on your dog's weight. You'd be surprised how quickly overweight dogs can drop those pounds when their treats are cut back and/or changed.
Small breed dogs are more prone to become overweight than larger breeds are anyway, and adding those extra calories with unnecessary treats does not help that. Your dog should not receive more than 4 to 5 treats a day, and treating should be reserved for training, or perhaps just to give your dog something special during the course of his day. If your dog does not have a tendency to become overweight, you're probably alright to continue with whatever treats you prefer to give him, although there are healthier alternatives. But if your dog has a weight problem, we have some recommendations for treats which are tasty and much healthier for your beloved pet.
The first one is our favorite, and you can buy it at our favorite place...that's right, Wal-Mart...is PupCorn. They are little doggie shaped, popcorn looking treats. They are very low in calories, which makes them less likely to put weight on your dog, and dogs LOVE the taste. Our dogs adore them!
However, if your dog enjoys the soft, meaty treats, we have several recommendations for that as well. Sniffers treats, which you can buy at PetSmart and other pet supply places and online, are very small, training size treats, and dogs really enjoy them. In fact, many manufacturers make tiny meaty treats now. Bil-Jac, Blue, Science Diet and many others are beginning to understand the weight issues that our dogs face and the necessity for pet owners to treat their dogs without sacrificing their health. Bil-Jac makes a tiny liver treat and a variety of other small meaty treats that you can purchase at most pet supply places, and our dogs love them. For a more holistic type of treat, Blue also makes a line of tiny meaty training treats that dogs respond to very well. The Train Me treat line (from pet supply places) which are training size, meaty treats are excellent too. Basically, for the meaty treats, the smaller the better, as these are often the ones that do the most damage to a dog's waistline!
Biscuit treats can also put weight on your dog. It is rarely necessary to give a dog, especially a small breed, a large biscuit treat. TreatCo (which can be purchased at www.jefferspets.com) has a line of small biscuit treats. These treats are so small that actually the small size that they sell is a training size, bone shaped biscuit. The medium size biscuits will also make a good size treat, even for overweight dogs. Old Mother Hubbard also has a line of very small biscuit treats that are all natural. Charlie Bear is another good biscuit type small training treat.
Another wonderful treat for dogs is yogurt treats. These tend to be somewhat lower in calories, but pack an enticing flavor that most dogs cannot resist. Pooch Passions and Vitrakraft both have a line of these that are a decent size treat, but for the overweight dog, only one of these per day! Other manufacturers are beginning to make smaller versions, but we have yet to try any of those. All of the above mentioned treats can be found at either www.carealotpets.com or www.jefferspets.com.
Then there is a variety of "health foods" for dogs, including treats. The dog food company, Nutro, makes a line of foods and treats called Ultra which are supposed to be a healthy alternative to regular treats. We can't speak for them though as we have not tried them. Also, there is a line called Wellness, and one called One Earth Natural Dog Biscuits, which you can find at www.carealotpets.com All of these are supposed to be all natural and wholistic to promote your dog's health.
Finally, perhaps the best treat that you can give your dog is whole, fresh fruits and veggies. Many dogs LOVE apples, carrots, cucumbers, bananas and other types of fresh fruits and veggies. Even a tiny bit of raw chicken or turkey makes an excellent treat now and then. Just remember, make sure that fruits and veggies are fresh (never canned or frozen, unless frozen with no sugar added), and thoroughly washed to remove pesticides. Also, make sure that when feeding raw meat, you clean up after your dog with bleach to prevent salmonella poisoning in the humans in your home.
Whatever the treat you choose for your dog, we recommend that you do not discount the effect that the treats can have on your dog's weight. You'd be surprised how quickly overweight dogs can drop those pounds when their treats are cut back and/or changed.
Monday, November 5, 2018
Chihuahuas and Cold Weather. Remember, They are NOT Winter Dogs!
In general, most dogs don't mix too well with cold weather. There are, of course, a few exceptions....some dogs who enjoy cold climates, but on average, dogs don't like the cold, especially Chihuahuas. Chihuahuas are very much warm weather dogs, and very much dislike the cold.
At this time of year, it's important to remember your dogs when you're trying to keep warm. A no brainer....if temperatures are approaching freezing, your dog should not be left outside. At the very least, he should have access to shelter out of the elements, preferably with a blanket or something to curl up with, where he can more efficiently use his own body heat to keep warm. Ideally, he should be indoors in a heated environment. If your dog is in a structure which does not have central heat, be careful using space heaters. Please be sure that you keep them on a non-combustible surface, such as cement, and that you keep them away from any fabric, paper, etc., to prevent fires. Also, be careful that your dog cannot come into contact with the heaters, as they can be very badly burned should they brush against them.
Cold weather can have many effects on your dog's health. As with humans, exposure to cold temperatures, especially for prolonged periods of time, degrades the immune system and opens your dog up to illness. Cold weather also stiffens joints, leaving your dog more likely to develop arthritis. It slows the digestive process and reduces your dog's energy level, which leads to weight gain. Tiny paws can freeze very quickly, resulting in frostbite that may not end well for your or your dog. Taking your dog out side for a short time to get some exercise is fine....necessary in fact. But please don't leave him out. Let him exercise and then bring him back inside to keep warm.
Note: Chihuahuas and other small breeds should NEVER be left outside for longer than a few minutes during the winter months. They are much more susceptible to the cold than larger dogs are, and excessive shivering, coupled with exposure to the elements, can make tiny dogs sick very quickly. These small dogs need a heated environment. Simply keeping them out of the elements is not enough for them. Please be sure that you house your small dogs inside your home during the winter!
At this time of year, it's important to remember your dogs when you're trying to keep warm. A no brainer....if temperatures are approaching freezing, your dog should not be left outside. At the very least, he should have access to shelter out of the elements, preferably with a blanket or something to curl up with, where he can more efficiently use his own body heat to keep warm. Ideally, he should be indoors in a heated environment. If your dog is in a structure which does not have central heat, be careful using space heaters. Please be sure that you keep them on a non-combustible surface, such as cement, and that you keep them away from any fabric, paper, etc., to prevent fires. Also, be careful that your dog cannot come into contact with the heaters, as they can be very badly burned should they brush against them.
Cold weather can have many effects on your dog's health. As with humans, exposure to cold temperatures, especially for prolonged periods of time, degrades the immune system and opens your dog up to illness. Cold weather also stiffens joints, leaving your dog more likely to develop arthritis. It slows the digestive process and reduces your dog's energy level, which leads to weight gain. Tiny paws can freeze very quickly, resulting in frostbite that may not end well for your or your dog. Taking your dog out side for a short time to get some exercise is fine....necessary in fact. But please don't leave him out. Let him exercise and then bring him back inside to keep warm.
Note: Chihuahuas and other small breeds should NEVER be left outside for longer than a few minutes during the winter months. They are much more susceptible to the cold than larger dogs are, and excessive shivering, coupled with exposure to the elements, can make tiny dogs sick very quickly. These small dogs need a heated environment. Simply keeping them out of the elements is not enough for them. Please be sure that you house your small dogs inside your home during the winter!
Monday, October 29, 2018
The Do's and Don't of Doggo Dental Hygiene
Dental health is just as important in canines as it is in humans, but we know it's much more difficult to maintain. If your dog has been socialized by the breeder properly, and trained to the highest standard, he may actually stand there with his mouth open and allow you to brush his teeth. However, we doubt very much that the majority of dogs out there will allow this...and not because of socialization or training, but because dogs don't brush their own teeth, so it's a very foreign concept for them. If your dog will tolerate it, daily brushing is ideal. but dogs do employ a method for cleaning their teeth own, which is where we, as their humans who love them, come in.
Dogs keep their teeth clean by chewing on things. None of us want them chewing on our belongings though, so we must provide them with something to chew on which will help keep their teeth and mouth healthy. Our recommendation, first and foremost, are rope toys. They act as flossers for a dog's teeth, and are wonderful teeth cleaners. They are usually inexpensive and easy to clean...just throw them in the washing machine.
There are several other types of toys on the market which are designed to help keep a dog's teeth clean. Nylabone Super Tough Durables Chews are designed to actually brush the dog's teeth as he chews. And Nylabone and numerous other manufacturers have a host of dental chews in a variety of shapes. They each have little bumps on them which help to clean plaque off of teeth during chewing. Nylabone also has a line of toys called Rhino. They come in different shapes, but each has a rope attached to it. One is a ball with grooves that have little bristles inside, which would brush the teeth during chewing. And, also from Nylabone, the Double Action Dental Chew, which offers both a nylon and softer rubber mint flavored chewing option (which helps to freshen breath), both which offer plaque removal. Kong has a dental toy as well. It's a grooved rubber toy with a rope on each end. The grooves scrape plaque off the teeth as the dog chews.
There are also a variety of edible chews on the market that are supposed to help clean teeth. These have improved immensely over the years, and do help with teeth cleaning. However, they should be used with caution. Any edible treat adds to your dog's daily calorie intake, so using these as daily teeth cleaning treats may be problematic, especially for dogs that are prone to weight issues. For those dogs, these chews are better left as ocassional treats.
If you are among the lucky ones whose dog will tolerate brushing, there are a variety of brushes and cleaning pastes on the market. I prefer the finger brushes, as they are much easier to control, but if you prefer a plastic brush, make sure you use one designed for a dog. The shape can make a difference in how clean it leaves your dog's teeth. When it comes to choosing a paste, keep in mind that many dogs do not care for the flavor of mint. Vanilla, peanut butter or even meat flavored pastes may be a better option.
Also keep in mind that you only need to brush the outside of your dog's teeth. The inside of the teeth are kept clean by the dog's tongue, so no need to stress your dog out with the highly intrusive brushing inside his mouth.
Of course, a dental cleaning by your vet is a good idea too. However, we do have some concerns about this with small breed dogs. Any time a dog has his teeth cleaned, he must be put under general anesthesia. Most times, it's not a great idea to put a small breed dog under like that..it can create many complications. This is especially true for really tiny dogs. That's not to say that you shouldn't have your small breed's teeth cleaned. We just recommend that you don't do it any more often than necessary.
Dogs keep their teeth clean by chewing on things. None of us want them chewing on our belongings though, so we must provide them with something to chew on which will help keep their teeth and mouth healthy. Our recommendation, first and foremost, are rope toys. They act as flossers for a dog's teeth, and are wonderful teeth cleaners. They are usually inexpensive and easy to clean...just throw them in the washing machine.
There are several other types of toys on the market which are designed to help keep a dog's teeth clean. Nylabone Super Tough Durables Chews are designed to actually brush the dog's teeth as he chews. And Nylabone and numerous other manufacturers have a host of dental chews in a variety of shapes. They each have little bumps on them which help to clean plaque off of teeth during chewing. Nylabone also has a line of toys called Rhino. They come in different shapes, but each has a rope attached to it. One is a ball with grooves that have little bristles inside, which would brush the teeth during chewing. And, also from Nylabone, the Double Action Dental Chew, which offers both a nylon and softer rubber mint flavored chewing option (which helps to freshen breath), both which offer plaque removal. Kong has a dental toy as well. It's a grooved rubber toy with a rope on each end. The grooves scrape plaque off the teeth as the dog chews.
There are also a variety of edible chews on the market that are supposed to help clean teeth. These have improved immensely over the years, and do help with teeth cleaning. However, they should be used with caution. Any edible treat adds to your dog's daily calorie intake, so using these as daily teeth cleaning treats may be problematic, especially for dogs that are prone to weight issues. For those dogs, these chews are better left as ocassional treats.
If you are among the lucky ones whose dog will tolerate brushing, there are a variety of brushes and cleaning pastes on the market. I prefer the finger brushes, as they are much easier to control, but if you prefer a plastic brush, make sure you use one designed for a dog. The shape can make a difference in how clean it leaves your dog's teeth. When it comes to choosing a paste, keep in mind that many dogs do not care for the flavor of mint. Vanilla, peanut butter or even meat flavored pastes may be a better option.
Also keep in mind that you only need to brush the outside of your dog's teeth. The inside of the teeth are kept clean by the dog's tongue, so no need to stress your dog out with the highly intrusive brushing inside his mouth.
Of course, a dental cleaning by your vet is a good idea too. However, we do have some concerns about this with small breed dogs. Any time a dog has his teeth cleaned, he must be put under general anesthesia. Most times, it's not a great idea to put a small breed dog under like that..it can create many complications. This is especially true for really tiny dogs. That's not to say that you shouldn't have your small breed's teeth cleaned. We just recommend that you don't do it any more often than necessary.
Monday, October 22, 2018
Tips for Feeding Your Chihuahua a Nutritional Diet
All dogs have to eat. I know it, you know it....everyone knows it. And nobody knows it better than dog food manufacturers. There are TONS of manufacturers out there who produce hundreds, maybe thousands, of dog foods. It can be very difficult to sort out the good ones from the bad ones. The first thing you need to do is to learn how to read those dog food labels. Instead of trying to explain that to you, I think this link would do the job much better. http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1661&articleid=668
The biggest thing to remember when reading labels is you don't want the first 1 or 2 ingredients to be, corn, corn products or any other grain products. Your food should have a good meat base of some kind. Also, watch out for by-products....many foods have them. Dog food ingredients are listed the same as human food ingredients, in order of the amount used in the food. So the first ingredient would be the ingredient that is used in the largest quantity. Therefore, you definitely do not want a food that lists by-products in the top 10 ingredients.
Next, you need to determine what your dog needs. Remember, small breeds and large breeds have different needs. Because we are familiar with the needs of the small breed dogs, we'll concentrate on that. A small breed puppy needs only slightly more protein than fat in their diet. Some dog food manufacturers understand this better than others. Normally, we look for a food that has at least 26% protein and 16% fat...more of either would be better, and a smaller difference would be ideal. When looking for a puppy food, it is usually best to stay away from goods made specifically for small breeds. Food manufacturers correctly assume that small breeds need quick energy sources. However, they normally use corn to supply that, and dogs simply do not digest corn. So, it is best to get a regular puppy food rather than a small breed food. Your puppy should remain on puppy food for the first year of it's life, but the same is true for small breed adult foods. It is usually best to just stay away from them.
As your puppy reaches one year of age, you'll want to research the foods for adult dogs. Now you want to look for higher protein and lower fat, as small breeds have a tendency to become overweight. In the end, you'll probably end up with a food similar in protein and fat content to the puppy food you fed, but if possible, seek a food that has at least 26% protein and less than 14% fat. Be sure that you follow the feeding instructions on the package too. Many dogs will eat till their food is gone, whether they really need to or not. Overfeeding is a major cause of weight problems in dogs. Generally speaking, small breeds should not eat more than 1 cup of food a day (and depending on their actual size, it may be much less than this.)
Next, many dogs have allergies to some of the ingredients in food. The most common allergies are to beef products and to wheat. So, if your dog is on a food that contains one of these products and he/she is having digestive or skin/coat issues, the beef or wheat in his/her food may be the culprit.
Ok, so now that you have a basic understanding of your dog's nutritional needs, we can discuss the actual food.
First, let me stress that you should NOT feed canned or semi-moist food as your dog's exclusive diet. Generally, these foods are very poor quality and have very few nutrients in them. They are also terribly bad for your dog's teeth. So, feed canned foods only if your vet says you need to for some reason.
Second,let us recommend that you stay completely away from store or generic brands. These are the lowest quality foods on the market.
Next, we'd like to point out that most food manufacturers make numerous different kinds of foods...and they label some as "premium" and some not. Generally speaking, the "non-premium" foods are those that can be found in grocery stores, or our favorite place, Wal-Mart, while the "premium foods" are found in pet supply stores only. We have found very little difference among the non-premium foods. And we've also found very little difference among the premium foods, with the exception of grain-free foods. The difference between the two seems to be the amount of meal and corn they use, but to be honest, even that is not always different, all depending on the brand. But there are a few exceptions. There are "health foods" for dogs. These foods are all natural, holistic and claim to offer a perfectly balanced diet for your dog. Those brands include "Wellness", "Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul", "Nutro Ultra", "Natural Balance", "Solid Gold", "Missing Link" and there are others, but those are just to name a few. In the end, you should choose a food for your dog that provides for his nutritional requirements. It matters little what brand or whether or not it's a premium food. We know of at least two "non-premium" foods on the market that are just as good as many premium foods....the Iams line and the Purina One line.
Many people nowadays are taking to feeding their dogs raw foods. There are many raw food providers, especially online. While this seems ideal because of the fact that in nature a dog would eat an entirely raw diet, we do see some possible complication to it as well. For instance, you must purchase food more often because you cannot purchase a large quantity, lest it should spoil. And spoiling is another complication. It's not uncommon for a pet owner to unknowingly feed their pet spoiled raw food which makes for a stout case of food poisoning and a very sick dog. Believe it or not, it's not always easy to tell if raw food is spoiled or not. It can be spoiled enough to cause food poisoning before it really develops any noticeable odor. And feeding your dog a raw diet is also quite expensive. Finally, when feeding a raw diet, it is essential to maintain a very strict cleaning regiment to prevent contamination and sickness for the humans in your home. Dogs can digest salmonella without getting sick, but people cannot. Since the basis of most raw diets is chicken, you must keep your dog's bowls and meal area very clean, using bleach products, to protect your family from getting sick.
Finally, some manufactures are offering an alternative to both raw diets and kibble. These cooked "meat" diets, which is what I call them, include some types of meat as well as vegetables. They may come in the form of a roll or loose, prepackaged food. They do carry one risk that is similar to that for raw diets...they must be kept cold and if they get too warm, they may spoil. Also, as with canned food, these soft diets are not particularly good for your dog's teeth, so they should not be the exclusive diet. One important role of hard kibble is its ability to help keep your dog's teeth clean.
When choosing a food, just keep in mind these few things and you will make the best decision for your dog.
1. Do NOT feed canned food unless there is some reason to do so.
2. Dogs don't digest corn, so there should be as little as possible in their diet.
3. Other types of grains, such as wheat and barley, serve as quick energy sources for small breed dogs, so they are acceptable as long as your dog is not allergic to them, but they should not be the main ingredient.
4. It is generally best to choose a premium food, but grain-free is not necessary for small breeds. Corn-free would be ideal for any dog though. The notable exceptions are Iams and Purina One.
5. A raw diet is great if you are able to manage the risk associated with it. Otherwise, it is best to choose another form of food for your dog.
The biggest thing to remember when reading labels is you don't want the first 1 or 2 ingredients to be, corn, corn products or any other grain products. Your food should have a good meat base of some kind. Also, watch out for by-products....many foods have them. Dog food ingredients are listed the same as human food ingredients, in order of the amount used in the food. So the first ingredient would be the ingredient that is used in the largest quantity. Therefore, you definitely do not want a food that lists by-products in the top 10 ingredients.
Next, you need to determine what your dog needs. Remember, small breeds and large breeds have different needs. Because we are familiar with the needs of the small breed dogs, we'll concentrate on that. A small breed puppy needs only slightly more protein than fat in their diet. Some dog food manufacturers understand this better than others. Normally, we look for a food that has at least 26% protein and 16% fat...more of either would be better, and a smaller difference would be ideal. When looking for a puppy food, it is usually best to stay away from goods made specifically for small breeds. Food manufacturers correctly assume that small breeds need quick energy sources. However, they normally use corn to supply that, and dogs simply do not digest corn. So, it is best to get a regular puppy food rather than a small breed food. Your puppy should remain on puppy food for the first year of it's life, but the same is true for small breed adult foods. It is usually best to just stay away from them.
As your puppy reaches one year of age, you'll want to research the foods for adult dogs. Now you want to look for higher protein and lower fat, as small breeds have a tendency to become overweight. In the end, you'll probably end up with a food similar in protein and fat content to the puppy food you fed, but if possible, seek a food that has at least 26% protein and less than 14% fat. Be sure that you follow the feeding instructions on the package too. Many dogs will eat till their food is gone, whether they really need to or not. Overfeeding is a major cause of weight problems in dogs. Generally speaking, small breeds should not eat more than 1 cup of food a day (and depending on their actual size, it may be much less than this.)
Next, many dogs have allergies to some of the ingredients in food. The most common allergies are to beef products and to wheat. So, if your dog is on a food that contains one of these products and he/she is having digestive or skin/coat issues, the beef or wheat in his/her food may be the culprit.
Ok, so now that you have a basic understanding of your dog's nutritional needs, we can discuss the actual food.
First, let me stress that you should NOT feed canned or semi-moist food as your dog's exclusive diet. Generally, these foods are very poor quality and have very few nutrients in them. They are also terribly bad for your dog's teeth. So, feed canned foods only if your vet says you need to for some reason.
Second,let us recommend that you stay completely away from store or generic brands. These are the lowest quality foods on the market.
Next, we'd like to point out that most food manufacturers make numerous different kinds of foods...and they label some as "premium" and some not. Generally speaking, the "non-premium" foods are those that can be found in grocery stores, or our favorite place, Wal-Mart, while the "premium foods" are found in pet supply stores only. We have found very little difference among the non-premium foods. And we've also found very little difference among the premium foods, with the exception of grain-free foods. The difference between the two seems to be the amount of meal and corn they use, but to be honest, even that is not always different, all depending on the brand. But there are a few exceptions. There are "health foods" for dogs. These foods are all natural, holistic and claim to offer a perfectly balanced diet for your dog. Those brands include "Wellness", "Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul", "Nutro Ultra", "Natural Balance", "Solid Gold", "Missing Link" and there are others, but those are just to name a few. In the end, you should choose a food for your dog that provides for his nutritional requirements. It matters little what brand or whether or not it's a premium food. We know of at least two "non-premium" foods on the market that are just as good as many premium foods....the Iams line and the Purina One line.
Many people nowadays are taking to feeding their dogs raw foods. There are many raw food providers, especially online. While this seems ideal because of the fact that in nature a dog would eat an entirely raw diet, we do see some possible complication to it as well. For instance, you must purchase food more often because you cannot purchase a large quantity, lest it should spoil. And spoiling is another complication. It's not uncommon for a pet owner to unknowingly feed their pet spoiled raw food which makes for a stout case of food poisoning and a very sick dog. Believe it or not, it's not always easy to tell if raw food is spoiled or not. It can be spoiled enough to cause food poisoning before it really develops any noticeable odor. And feeding your dog a raw diet is also quite expensive. Finally, when feeding a raw diet, it is essential to maintain a very strict cleaning regiment to prevent contamination and sickness for the humans in your home. Dogs can digest salmonella without getting sick, but people cannot. Since the basis of most raw diets is chicken, you must keep your dog's bowls and meal area very clean, using bleach products, to protect your family from getting sick.
Finally, some manufactures are offering an alternative to both raw diets and kibble. These cooked "meat" diets, which is what I call them, include some types of meat as well as vegetables. They may come in the form of a roll or loose, prepackaged food. They do carry one risk that is similar to that for raw diets...they must be kept cold and if they get too warm, they may spoil. Also, as with canned food, these soft diets are not particularly good for your dog's teeth, so they should not be the exclusive diet. One important role of hard kibble is its ability to help keep your dog's teeth clean.
When choosing a food, just keep in mind these few things and you will make the best decision for your dog.
1. Do NOT feed canned food unless there is some reason to do so.
2. Dogs don't digest corn, so there should be as little as possible in their diet.
3. Other types of grains, such as wheat and barley, serve as quick energy sources for small breed dogs, so they are acceptable as long as your dog is not allergic to them, but they should not be the main ingredient.
4. It is generally best to choose a premium food, but grain-free is not necessary for small breeds. Corn-free would be ideal for any dog though. The notable exceptions are Iams and Purina One.
5. A raw diet is great if you are able to manage the risk associated with it. Otherwise, it is best to choose another form of food for your dog.
Monday, October 15, 2018
Do Chihuahuas Like Kids? Absolutely...IF! Tips for Socializing Your Chihuahua with Children.
One of the most common questions that I hear from people interested in Chihuahuas as a breed is "Are they good with kids?"
My answer is most definitely yes....IF! That "if" represents a few things. First of all, your Chihuahua must be properly socialized. This begins with the breeder, but does not stop after you bring your puppy home. In fact, socialization is an ongoing process throughout most of your dog's life. This includes the all-important aspect of socializing your puppy with children. If you take your puppy home and he never sees a child, it is likely that your Chihuahua may grow to dislike children. Our suggestion to continued socialization of your dog....take him with you every where you possibly can. Take him on outings in the park where there will be children around.
While it is important to introduce your puppy to children, if your puppy is unsure about children, there is a word of caution associated with the process in order to prevent bad experiences for both your puppy and the children involved. Be careful about how you allow children to approach your Chihuahua (hopefully the child's parents will be keeping an eye on their child too.) If your dog seems afraid of the child, do not pick your dog up and cuddle him...this will reinforce his idea that there is something to be afraid of. Instead, talk to the child in a calming voice (this will calm both the child and your Chihuahua) and be friendly with the child. This will give your dog the idea that the child is ok. If possible, have the child sit down on the ground near your puppy to make the child appear smaller to the puppy and to reduce unanticipated movements that could startle your puppy.
Don't allow the child to approach your dog though until your dog takes an interest in the child, usually by sniffing in the child's direction or possibly moving in the child's direction a little bit. Once your dog has taken an interest, allow the child to reach for or approach the puppy gently while you continue to talk to the child in a friendly tone, but do not allow him to touch your Chihuahua until he is comfortable with the child's proximity.
Once the dog seems comfortable with the child being near, allow the child to offer your Chihuahua his hand to sniff. Always allow your puppy to sniff first, before ever trying to touch! If your dog is alright with that, allow the child to put his hand on your Chihuahua's head, and once your dog demonstrates that he is alright with that, the child should be able to pet your Chihuahua after that with no problems.
If you're concerned about your Chihuahua biting the child, you will definitely want to have the basic obedience commands in place (such as sit, stay, no, down, and so forth) before you attempt this, as it will give you much more control over what your dog will do.
If you have children in your home, it's important to understand that it's just as necessary to train the child how to behave around the Chihuahua as it is to train the Chihuahua how to behave around the child. If you allow your child to abuse your Chihuahua by pulling ears or tail, using the Chihuahua as a pillow (although some Chi's love this...some don't), or worse, using the Chihuahua as a football, you should hardly be surprised if your Chihuahua comes to hate your child. Chihuahuas will protect themselves if they feel the need too. Teach your child to be calm when the Chihuahua is around. Teach him how to handle your Chihuahua properly and you shouldn't have any problems with your Chihuahua and your child getting along. Chihuahuas often attach very strongly to children and act as their protectors.
So, in short, yes, Chihuahuas can be wonderful with children if they are properly trained and socialized. Most Chihuahuas love children very much, and children love Chihuahuas. Start off on the right foot with your child and your Chihuahua and before you know it, they'll have a bond that may make even you a little envious!
My answer is most definitely yes....IF! That "if" represents a few things. First of all, your Chihuahua must be properly socialized. This begins with the breeder, but does not stop after you bring your puppy home. In fact, socialization is an ongoing process throughout most of your dog's life. This includes the all-important aspect of socializing your puppy with children. If you take your puppy home and he never sees a child, it is likely that your Chihuahua may grow to dislike children. Our suggestion to continued socialization of your dog....take him with you every where you possibly can. Take him on outings in the park where there will be children around.
While it is important to introduce your puppy to children, if your puppy is unsure about children, there is a word of caution associated with the process in order to prevent bad experiences for both your puppy and the children involved. Be careful about how you allow children to approach your Chihuahua (hopefully the child's parents will be keeping an eye on their child too.) If your dog seems afraid of the child, do not pick your dog up and cuddle him...this will reinforce his idea that there is something to be afraid of. Instead, talk to the child in a calming voice (this will calm both the child and your Chihuahua) and be friendly with the child. This will give your dog the idea that the child is ok. If possible, have the child sit down on the ground near your puppy to make the child appear smaller to the puppy and to reduce unanticipated movements that could startle your puppy.
Don't allow the child to approach your dog though until your dog takes an interest in the child, usually by sniffing in the child's direction or possibly moving in the child's direction a little bit. Once your dog has taken an interest, allow the child to reach for or approach the puppy gently while you continue to talk to the child in a friendly tone, but do not allow him to touch your Chihuahua until he is comfortable with the child's proximity.
Once the dog seems comfortable with the child being near, allow the child to offer your Chihuahua his hand to sniff. Always allow your puppy to sniff first, before ever trying to touch! If your dog is alright with that, allow the child to put his hand on your Chihuahua's head, and once your dog demonstrates that he is alright with that, the child should be able to pet your Chihuahua after that with no problems.
If you're concerned about your Chihuahua biting the child, you will definitely want to have the basic obedience commands in place (such as sit, stay, no, down, and so forth) before you attempt this, as it will give you much more control over what your dog will do.
If you have children in your home, it's important to understand that it's just as necessary to train the child how to behave around the Chihuahua as it is to train the Chihuahua how to behave around the child. If you allow your child to abuse your Chihuahua by pulling ears or tail, using the Chihuahua as a pillow (although some Chi's love this...some don't), or worse, using the Chihuahua as a football, you should hardly be surprised if your Chihuahua comes to hate your child. Chihuahuas will protect themselves if they feel the need too. Teach your child to be calm when the Chihuahua is around. Teach him how to handle your Chihuahua properly and you shouldn't have any problems with your Chihuahua and your child getting along. Chihuahuas often attach very strongly to children and act as their protectors.
So, in short, yes, Chihuahuas can be wonderful with children if they are properly trained and socialized. Most Chihuahuas love children very much, and children love Chihuahuas. Start off on the right foot with your child and your Chihuahua and before you know it, they'll have a bond that may make even you a little envious!
Monday, October 8, 2018
To Clothe or Not to Clothe? That is the question. Can my Chihuahua wear those adorable doggies dresses I see in the store?
"Can I put clothes on my Chihuahua?"
The answer to the question varies as much as Chihuahuas themselves do. Chihuahuas, as with most other dogs, really don't need to wear clothes most of the time. There are some breeds, such as the hairless Chinese Crested, that do well with clothing due to lack of their own "clothing". And, many Chihuahuas do well with clothing too, especially in particularly cold times or places, as Chihuahuas are very much "warm weather" dogs. They really don't care for the cold, and so many welcome a warming sweater or jacket when the temps plummet.
But then, there are some that.....well, let's just say...don't so much welcome it. There are a variety of ways that your Chi may tell you that he does not, indeed, like the extra layers that you have added to his body. He may run around the house like a mad dog, bumping into walls and furniture, screeching and howling the entire way, until either you catch him, or he finally manages to get most of the offensive material off and dragging behind him.
Or, he may stand stone still, too afraid or too uncomfortable to move, glaring at you or looking unbelievably pitiful,and stay that way until you pity him enough to take the horrible mess off of him. And then, there are those that will calmly, rationally, RIP the offensive garment off of themselves and hide it under a cushion or bed to ensure, at least in their minds, that you will never find it again, and therefore, certainly could not ever attempt to cover them with it again.
Remember though, while these antics of the tortured Chihuahua may be amusing, your Chi is trying to tell you something. I think that if he could actually tell you what he's thinking, it may sound something like this "Please, beloved human, do not put an extra cover on me again, because I do not need it and I do not like it. If you insist on covering my beautiful fur with those horrid garments again, I will be forced to hate you forever."
Seriously though, whether or not you can dress your Chihuahua depends entirely upon the Chihuahua. If your Chi needs clothing for any reason, because he is cold or anything else, he will gladly and happily wear the clothing that you put on him as long as it does not hurt or bother him with rubbing, choking or constricting his movement. If he is not wearing the clothing....if he insists that it must come off....please take it off. Don't assume that he'll get used to it. Some may get used to it, though they will likely never enjoy wearing it, but many never get used to it and it's not only a bother to them, but an expense to you to keep replacing what they destroy trying to get it off. In addition, unhappy dogs can hurt themselves trying to get out of the offending clothing, and that is definitely not going to make you happy either.
*A side note....please be careful what clothing you choose to put on your Chihuahua. You'll want to be sure that you do not put too much pressure on the neck and trachea. Also, you won't want to constrict the movement of his legs, and I think it's also a good idea not to put anything on him that will bend his ears down, as this can damage the cartiledge and his ability to stand his ears up as they should be. Basically, the clothing that you choose should allow your Chi to move and act the way he normally does or it is not appropriate for him.*
The answer to the question varies as much as Chihuahuas themselves do. Chihuahuas, as with most other dogs, really don't need to wear clothes most of the time. There are some breeds, such as the hairless Chinese Crested, that do well with clothing due to lack of their own "clothing". And, many Chihuahuas do well with clothing too, especially in particularly cold times or places, as Chihuahuas are very much "warm weather" dogs. They really don't care for the cold, and so many welcome a warming sweater or jacket when the temps plummet.
But then, there are some that.....well, let's just say...don't so much welcome it. There are a variety of ways that your Chi may tell you that he does not, indeed, like the extra layers that you have added to his body. He may run around the house like a mad dog, bumping into walls and furniture, screeching and howling the entire way, until either you catch him, or he finally manages to get most of the offensive material off and dragging behind him.
Or, he may stand stone still, too afraid or too uncomfortable to move, glaring at you or looking unbelievably pitiful,and stay that way until you pity him enough to take the horrible mess off of him. And then, there are those that will calmly, rationally, RIP the offensive garment off of themselves and hide it under a cushion or bed to ensure, at least in their minds, that you will never find it again, and therefore, certainly could not ever attempt to cover them with it again.
Remember though, while these antics of the tortured Chihuahua may be amusing, your Chi is trying to tell you something. I think that if he could actually tell you what he's thinking, it may sound something like this "Please, beloved human, do not put an extra cover on me again, because I do not need it and I do not like it. If you insist on covering my beautiful fur with those horrid garments again, I will be forced to hate you forever."
Seriously though, whether or not you can dress your Chihuahua depends entirely upon the Chihuahua. If your Chi needs clothing for any reason, because he is cold or anything else, he will gladly and happily wear the clothing that you put on him as long as it does not hurt or bother him with rubbing, choking or constricting his movement. If he is not wearing the clothing....if he insists that it must come off....please take it off. Don't assume that he'll get used to it. Some may get used to it, though they will likely never enjoy wearing it, but many never get used to it and it's not only a bother to them, but an expense to you to keep replacing what they destroy trying to get it off. In addition, unhappy dogs can hurt themselves trying to get out of the offending clothing, and that is definitely not going to make you happy either.
*A side note....please be careful what clothing you choose to put on your Chihuahua. You'll want to be sure that you do not put too much pressure on the neck and trachea. Also, you won't want to constrict the movement of his legs, and I think it's also a good idea not to put anything on him that will bend his ears down, as this can damage the cartiledge and his ability to stand his ears up as they should be. Basically, the clothing that you choose should allow your Chi to move and act the way he normally does or it is not appropriate for him.*
Monday, October 1, 2018
Finding Fido: Tips for Effective Pet Identification.
It's a dog lover's worst nightmare. Your pet gets out of your yard and the next thing you know, he's missing...completely and totally gone. You search and search the area, put up posters and call animal control to see if he's been picked up, but nothing pans out and your dog is still missing.
Nobody likes the above situation, so hopefully this entry will help you avoid it. There are a few good options for pet identification that will help to get your pet back home should he/she come up missing. All vets, animal control agencies and rescue groups recommend some form of pet identification, but it's hard to know what is the most effective means of identifying your pet. Below are three possible options for you.
The basic ID tag- these metal or plastic tags hang from the collar and are engraved with the owner's information. These are very cost effective, usually costing less than $10 each, and they can be the fastest and most effective way of having your pet returned home. However, these tags do have a down side. If your pet is lost, he may find himself in unusual sutiations, such as squeezing under fences or through brush. It is not uncommon for a dog to be found without the collar and tag that his owner said he was wearing when he went missing. Collars can come off...and tags can come off of collars. So while this may be the easiest method of pet ID to use and to change if your information changes, it's not always the most reliable.
Tattoos- This method of pet ID involves actually making your owner information part of the pet by tattooing it directly onto his skin. Normally, you would simply tattoo your phone number onto an area of your dog's skin which is the least fur covered. This is a relatively good method of helping you find your dog, as long as he eventually ends up in a vet's office, animal control shelter or rescue. But the average citizen may not think to look for a tattoo. Another down side to this method is..what happens if your phone number changes? You really have no option but to remove or change the tatoo, which is not only uncomfortable for your dog, but can be costly for you as well. Finally, another down side to this method is that tattooing is not particularly comfortable during and immediately after the procedure. Many vets can do the tattoos or can refer you to someone who can, but tattooing is done on dogs under anesthesia and then must heal afterwards. So, while this form of ID may be the most permanent, that may not be a good thing.
Microchipping- This method of pet ID involves injecting a tiny microchip (about the size of a grain of rice) underneath your dog's skin in the same manner used in giving a vaccine. The skin forms a small pocket around the microchip to keep it in place. This chip emmits a signal that can be read by special readers which most vet's offices and animal rescues have. The reading reveals a registration number. The chips are registered with the company who makes them and the registration numbers emmited by the chips are linked to your contact information so the company helps to find you and reunite you and your pet. Microchips are permanent, though they can move around after implantation. It is relatively easy to change your contact information. Simply contact the company and update your info. So, microchips are a pretty good form of ID for your pet.
There are some down sides to these chips though. There are a few companies that make them and they make them so that their readers are the only ones that can read their chips, so a reader from one company cannot read chips from another company. They do make universal readers now, but they are pricey. The best vet's offices, animal shelters and rescues have access to all the readers or have universal readers so that no matter what chip your dog may have implanted, they'll be able to read it. Next, reading the chip is done by scanning the dog's body with the reader to see if there is any signal coming from a chip anywhere. Most chips to provide tags that can be affixed to your dog's collar indicating that a microchip is in place, but without that tag, anyone who finds your lost dog must actually take him/her somewhere to be scanned for a chip, and sometimes, people may not think to do that. Also, your pet must eventually end up in the hands of a vet, animal control shelter or rescue because the average peson does not have, not ever will have, a reader. Readers are expensive and not practical for the average person, even the average pet owner, to purchase. Finally, if your dog has beens stolen (it is happening more and more with purebred dogs, unfortunately), even a microchip will not help find him. They are not GPS locators. They are simply chips that provide information if scanned.
For more information on one brand of microchips, click the link below.
http://www.homeagainid.com/
All of these methods of pet ID have advantages and disadvantages. One may be a better choice for you than for someone else. Small town pets can often do just fine with an ID tag, while larger city pets may do better with the microchip. These methods can also be combined, if you feel the need to be safe about it. No matter which method you choose, the bottom line is that you increase your chances of finding your lost pet if you use at least one of these methods of pet ID.
Nobody likes the above situation, so hopefully this entry will help you avoid it. There are a few good options for pet identification that will help to get your pet back home should he/she come up missing. All vets, animal control agencies and rescue groups recommend some form of pet identification, but it's hard to know what is the most effective means of identifying your pet. Below are three possible options for you.
The basic ID tag- these metal or plastic tags hang from the collar and are engraved with the owner's information. These are very cost effective, usually costing less than $10 each, and they can be the fastest and most effective way of having your pet returned home. However, these tags do have a down side. If your pet is lost, he may find himself in unusual sutiations, such as squeezing under fences or through brush. It is not uncommon for a dog to be found without the collar and tag that his owner said he was wearing when he went missing. Collars can come off...and tags can come off of collars. So while this may be the easiest method of pet ID to use and to change if your information changes, it's not always the most reliable.
Tattoos- This method of pet ID involves actually making your owner information part of the pet by tattooing it directly onto his skin. Normally, you would simply tattoo your phone number onto an area of your dog's skin which is the least fur covered. This is a relatively good method of helping you find your dog, as long as he eventually ends up in a vet's office, animal control shelter or rescue. But the average citizen may not think to look for a tattoo. Another down side to this method is..what happens if your phone number changes? You really have no option but to remove or change the tatoo, which is not only uncomfortable for your dog, but can be costly for you as well. Finally, another down side to this method is that tattooing is not particularly comfortable during and immediately after the procedure. Many vets can do the tattoos or can refer you to someone who can, but tattooing is done on dogs under anesthesia and then must heal afterwards. So, while this form of ID may be the most permanent, that may not be a good thing.
Microchipping- This method of pet ID involves injecting a tiny microchip (about the size of a grain of rice) underneath your dog's skin in the same manner used in giving a vaccine. The skin forms a small pocket around the microchip to keep it in place. This chip emmits a signal that can be read by special readers which most vet's offices and animal rescues have. The reading reveals a registration number. The chips are registered with the company who makes them and the registration numbers emmited by the chips are linked to your contact information so the company helps to find you and reunite you and your pet. Microchips are permanent, though they can move around after implantation. It is relatively easy to change your contact information. Simply contact the company and update your info. So, microchips are a pretty good form of ID for your pet.
There are some down sides to these chips though. There are a few companies that make them and they make them so that their readers are the only ones that can read their chips, so a reader from one company cannot read chips from another company. They do make universal readers now, but they are pricey. The best vet's offices, animal shelters and rescues have access to all the readers or have universal readers so that no matter what chip your dog may have implanted, they'll be able to read it. Next, reading the chip is done by scanning the dog's body with the reader to see if there is any signal coming from a chip anywhere. Most chips to provide tags that can be affixed to your dog's collar indicating that a microchip is in place, but without that tag, anyone who finds your lost dog must actually take him/her somewhere to be scanned for a chip, and sometimes, people may not think to do that. Also, your pet must eventually end up in the hands of a vet, animal control shelter or rescue because the average peson does not have, not ever will have, a reader. Readers are expensive and not practical for the average person, even the average pet owner, to purchase. Finally, if your dog has beens stolen (it is happening more and more with purebred dogs, unfortunately), even a microchip will not help find him. They are not GPS locators. They are simply chips that provide information if scanned.
For more information on one brand of microchips, click the link below.
http://www.homeagainid.com/
All of these methods of pet ID have advantages and disadvantages. One may be a better choice for you than for someone else. Small town pets can often do just fine with an ID tag, while larger city pets may do better with the microchip. These methods can also be combined, if you feel the need to be safe about it. No matter which method you choose, the bottom line is that you increase your chances of finding your lost pet if you use at least one of these methods of pet ID.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Cuddly Chihuahua or Cujo? You Decide! The Importance of Socializing Your Chihuahua.
Socialization....this is the issue that determines whether you have a well behaved, friendly, sweet, cuddly little companion, or an unruly, difficult to manage, timid or downright mean animal. Yes, training is an enormous part of it too, but in the end, it can be difficult to train a dog that has not been socialized well.
Many people have the wrong idea about what socialization is. It does, indeed, start with the breeder. In fact, socialization begins the day a puppy is born. But it doesn't stop when you take your puppy home. You have to continue your dog's socialization, and I beleive that socialization really is a lifetime process, especially for Chihuahuas.
For our puppies, we begin as soon as they are born and the mother is calmed down. The first step is to handle the puppies daily. We want to get them used to the human touch. That is key in producing a puppy that is not timid or afraid. Our puppies learn the joys of being held, cuddled, kissed and snuggled. They grow to love us very quickly.
Very soon after they open their eyes, they begin the socialization within the litter. This is important for them, as it establishes their place in their little pack, which helps personalities develop and allows them to feel safe. This is a process over which we have little, if any, control. Usually, when a puppy is the only puppy in the litter, they develop a more dominating personality. While in litters with multiple pups, we'll begin to see them differentiate between 3-5 weeks of age. Some will develop more dominant personalities than others.
As our puppies get older, we allow them to interact with other puppies of similar age. This affords them the opportunity for a few important things. The first is finding their place within a larger pack. The second is that it helps them to develop the idea of bonding with other animals outside of their litter. This is important to prevent fear of other dogs. And finally, when it comes to puppy play, as far as these guys are concerned, the more the merrier. They love to play in larger groups. They also get the chance to interact somewhat with our adult dogs, which helps them to be less timid with older animals that may be present in the homes they will go to.
During all of this, we are still handling our puppies, playing with them and loving on them daily...because it's great for them and for us! There's nothing more calming than cuddling with a little bitty Chi baby!
But, alas, it will be time for our babies to go home. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that we have socialized the pups so that job is over, but that couldn't be further from the truth. If you take a puppy home and he never sees other people or dogs, he will become timid because strangers will always be just that...strangers. Socialization must continue. As I mentioned earlier, I feel that it continues for the dog's entire life, but may dog behaviorists agree that the crucial time for socialization for puppies of any breed is between 8 and 16 weeks. Without extra effort during that critical time frame, even an older dog that was socialized well in the beginning may become more timid if his interaction with other people and animals stops for a long period of time.
Allow visitors to your house to play with your puppy. Invite them to bring their dogs over. Take your puppy to the park, or even better, to a dog park (after his puppy shot series is complete), where he can see and interact with other dogs of all breeds and other people as well. If you go to PetSmart, take your puppy with you (don't put him down on the floor though..too many ill animals go through there. Keep your dog in your arms or in a cart with a towel or blanket under him to prevent his contracting some disease...especially if he hasn't finished his series of puppy shots.) If you go visit your in-laws, take your puppy. Many employers are allowing folks to bring their dogs to work. If you can take your puppy to work, take him! Ok, I think you get the idea. Take your puppy with you everywhere he can possibly go. Allow strangers to approach him, but be cautious until you know how he will react to them. Allow children to pet your dog, but do be careful that the children are gentle with him. Expose him to as many people and other animals as you can.
Socialization indeed does begin with the breeder, but please know, it does not, by any means, stop there! Visit our webpage that provides more details about socialization, including links with quick tips to help begin the socialization process. www.chichibabies.com/socialization
Many people have the wrong idea about what socialization is. It does, indeed, start with the breeder. In fact, socialization begins the day a puppy is born. But it doesn't stop when you take your puppy home. You have to continue your dog's socialization, and I beleive that socialization really is a lifetime process, especially for Chihuahuas.
For our puppies, we begin as soon as they are born and the mother is calmed down. The first step is to handle the puppies daily. We want to get them used to the human touch. That is key in producing a puppy that is not timid or afraid. Our puppies learn the joys of being held, cuddled, kissed and snuggled. They grow to love us very quickly.
Very soon after they open their eyes, they begin the socialization within the litter. This is important for them, as it establishes their place in their little pack, which helps personalities develop and allows them to feel safe. This is a process over which we have little, if any, control. Usually, when a puppy is the only puppy in the litter, they develop a more dominating personality. While in litters with multiple pups, we'll begin to see them differentiate between 3-5 weeks of age. Some will develop more dominant personalities than others.
As our puppies get older, we allow them to interact with other puppies of similar age. This affords them the opportunity for a few important things. The first is finding their place within a larger pack. The second is that it helps them to develop the idea of bonding with other animals outside of their litter. This is important to prevent fear of other dogs. And finally, when it comes to puppy play, as far as these guys are concerned, the more the merrier. They love to play in larger groups. They also get the chance to interact somewhat with our adult dogs, which helps them to be less timid with older animals that may be present in the homes they will go to.
During all of this, we are still handling our puppies, playing with them and loving on them daily...because it's great for them and for us! There's nothing more calming than cuddling with a little bitty Chi baby!
But, alas, it will be time for our babies to go home. Many owners make the mistake of thinking that we have socialized the pups so that job is over, but that couldn't be further from the truth. If you take a puppy home and he never sees other people or dogs, he will become timid because strangers will always be just that...strangers. Socialization must continue. As I mentioned earlier, I feel that it continues for the dog's entire life, but may dog behaviorists agree that the crucial time for socialization for puppies of any breed is between 8 and 16 weeks. Without extra effort during that critical time frame, even an older dog that was socialized well in the beginning may become more timid if his interaction with other people and animals stops for a long period of time.
Allow visitors to your house to play with your puppy. Invite them to bring their dogs over. Take your puppy to the park, or even better, to a dog park (after his puppy shot series is complete), where he can see and interact with other dogs of all breeds and other people as well. If you go to PetSmart, take your puppy with you (don't put him down on the floor though..too many ill animals go through there. Keep your dog in your arms or in a cart with a towel or blanket under him to prevent his contracting some disease...especially if he hasn't finished his series of puppy shots.) If you go visit your in-laws, take your puppy. Many employers are allowing folks to bring their dogs to work. If you can take your puppy to work, take him! Ok, I think you get the idea. Take your puppy with you everywhere he can possibly go. Allow strangers to approach him, but be cautious until you know how he will react to them. Allow children to pet your dog, but do be careful that the children are gentle with him. Expose him to as many people and other animals as you can.
Socialization indeed does begin with the breeder, but please know, it does not, by any means, stop there! Visit our webpage that provides more details about socialization, including links with quick tips to help begin the socialization process. www.chichibabies.com/socialization
Tuesday, September 18, 2018
Don't Forget, Chihuahuas Are Still Dogs!
I know how easy it is to spoil your tiny bundle of Chihuahua happiness. I've had to fight the temptation myself. But you must remember that a Chihuahua is a dog, not a baby, and in the end, you're the one who will be sorry if you don't treat your Chihuahua like a dog.
Treating your Chihuahua like a dog may not always be easy. These little guys have the biggest most heart melting eyes I personally have ever seen. And Chihuahuas are very smart. They learn very quickly how to get what they want and I've seen too many Chihuahuas take over control of entire households in a matter of a week or two. Believe it or not, Chihuahuas are very adept at training their humans...it happens every day. So, we've got some tips for you to help you start out on the right foot with your Chihuahua, and a few tips to help you reverse some of the "human training" that may already have occurred between you and your Chihuahua.
The key to keeping control of your dog is to remember that Chihuahuas, like all other dogs, are pack animals and they need a pack leader. When there is no clear pack leader, they try to take over the position out of necessity, whether their personality is suited for it or not. So, remember, YOU are the pack leader and you must establish that with your Chihuahua.
For starters...and this may be the most important... Training!!! Teaching basic obedience commands is absolutely essential because it allows you to establish your dominance over your Chihuahua, which is necessary to establish your role as pack leader. Your Chihuahua must learn that all the good in his life comes from you, but at the same time, he also must learn that the good depends upon his behavior.
Next...don't feed your dog like a child. Do not feed him human food! This is not only bad for his training but also for his health. But even more than that, don't feed your Chihuahua when you eat. Don't sit with your plate and give your dog pieces of food from your own plate, especially if he's begging. Do not give in. Giving in establishes your Chihuahua's control over you. Your feeding technique should center around you as the "alpha" of the household allowing your Chihuahua to eat. Teach your Chihuahua a few basic obedience commands (such as sit and stay) and require that your dog obeys the commands while you are holding his food bowl. He doesn't get his food until he has properly obeyed the commands. This requires him to be calm and under control as you are preparing his food and it also reinforces the fact that you are the provider of food and just as an alpha dog would do in a pack, you only provide food for the pack members who display appropriate behavior.
You cannot tolerate your Chihuahua begging for food while you are eating. The basic obedience commands of "sit" and "quiet" should handle the begging.
Another important part of maintaining control over your Chihuahua is allowing him to walk. Don't carry your dog everywhere. He has 4 perfectly capable legs, let him use them. Leash train your Chihuahua and require him to walk properly on the leash. It's the leash that allows you to control your dog when he's walking. But if you're trying to maintain control by carrying him everywhere so he can't get into anything, that's not control. Your Chihuahua must learn to ignore outside influences and maintain attention on you, while on leash. Once this is mastered, you will have complete control over your Chihuahua, even when he's walking on his own.
For more information on leash training, click the link below and find the leash training link:
https://www.petco.com/shop/PetcoContentDisplayView?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&path=/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/caresheets/leash-training.html
Leash training and basic obedience training will help to reverse some of the "human control" your Chihuahua may have established over you. For feeding problems, you'll need to get your dog back onto dog food. To do this, the first thing you have to do is stop feeding him human food. Just stop cold turkey, so to speak, and don't feed him another bite of human food. Then find a canned or pouch food that your dog cannot resist and mix a little bit with the dry food that you feed until he's eating his regular food again, then you can gradually wean him off of the canned food. Your Chihuahua will not starve himself. He will eat. It may be slow at first, but when he's hungry, he'll eat, so don't give in on the human food just because your dog isn't wanting to eat his food very well. If he's not eating well, offer his food several times daily so that he has ample opportunity to eat.
The above ideas should be all you need to maintain the control of your household. If you have a more difficult case with your Chihuahua, you may consider consulting a trainer for more aggressive and complex training ideas.
Treating your Chihuahua like a dog may not always be easy. These little guys have the biggest most heart melting eyes I personally have ever seen. And Chihuahuas are very smart. They learn very quickly how to get what they want and I've seen too many Chihuahuas take over control of entire households in a matter of a week or two. Believe it or not, Chihuahuas are very adept at training their humans...it happens every day. So, we've got some tips for you to help you start out on the right foot with your Chihuahua, and a few tips to help you reverse some of the "human training" that may already have occurred between you and your Chihuahua.
The key to keeping control of your dog is to remember that Chihuahuas, like all other dogs, are pack animals and they need a pack leader. When there is no clear pack leader, they try to take over the position out of necessity, whether their personality is suited for it or not. So, remember, YOU are the pack leader and you must establish that with your Chihuahua.
For starters...and this may be the most important... Training!!! Teaching basic obedience commands is absolutely essential because it allows you to establish your dominance over your Chihuahua, which is necessary to establish your role as pack leader. Your Chihuahua must learn that all the good in his life comes from you, but at the same time, he also must learn that the good depends upon his behavior.
Next...don't feed your dog like a child. Do not feed him human food! This is not only bad for his training but also for his health. But even more than that, don't feed your Chihuahua when you eat. Don't sit with your plate and give your dog pieces of food from your own plate, especially if he's begging. Do not give in. Giving in establishes your Chihuahua's control over you. Your feeding technique should center around you as the "alpha" of the household allowing your Chihuahua to eat. Teach your Chihuahua a few basic obedience commands (such as sit and stay) and require that your dog obeys the commands while you are holding his food bowl. He doesn't get his food until he has properly obeyed the commands. This requires him to be calm and under control as you are preparing his food and it also reinforces the fact that you are the provider of food and just as an alpha dog would do in a pack, you only provide food for the pack members who display appropriate behavior.
You cannot tolerate your Chihuahua begging for food while you are eating. The basic obedience commands of "sit" and "quiet" should handle the begging.
Another important part of maintaining control over your Chihuahua is allowing him to walk. Don't carry your dog everywhere. He has 4 perfectly capable legs, let him use them. Leash train your Chihuahua and require him to walk properly on the leash. It's the leash that allows you to control your dog when he's walking. But if you're trying to maintain control by carrying him everywhere so he can't get into anything, that's not control. Your Chihuahua must learn to ignore outside influences and maintain attention on you, while on leash. Once this is mastered, you will have complete control over your Chihuahua, even when he's walking on his own.
For more information on leash training, click the link below and find the leash training link:
https://www.petco.com/shop/PetcoContentDisplayView?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&path=/content/petco/PetcoStore/en_US/pet-services/resource-center/caresheets/leash-training.html
Leash training and basic obedience training will help to reverse some of the "human control" your Chihuahua may have established over you. For feeding problems, you'll need to get your dog back onto dog food. To do this, the first thing you have to do is stop feeding him human food. Just stop cold turkey, so to speak, and don't feed him another bite of human food. Then find a canned or pouch food that your dog cannot resist and mix a little bit with the dry food that you feed until he's eating his regular food again, then you can gradually wean him off of the canned food. Your Chihuahua will not starve himself. He will eat. It may be slow at first, but when he's hungry, he'll eat, so don't give in on the human food just because your dog isn't wanting to eat his food very well. If he's not eating well, offer his food several times daily so that he has ample opportunity to eat.
The above ideas should be all you need to maintain the control of your household. If you have a more difficult case with your Chihuahua, you may consider consulting a trainer for more aggressive and complex training ideas.
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