People ask us all the time "how can I keep my puppy from chewing on things he's not supposed to?" Our answer...edible chew treats. Usually when puppies begin chewing on things, it's because they are teething. This teething phase usually begins somewhere around 8 weeks of age and can last 2-3 months or more, depending on how quickly your puppy looses his baby teeth. And yes, some puppies continue to chew even after that because they enjoy it. It's fun for them...it's how they play. It also keeps their teeth clean. Finally, since they are edible and taste great, most dogs and puppies are more likely to chew on them than they are on your belongings!
So, our suggestion is to keep plenty of chew treats on hand. There are a variety of them on the market, many more than I could possibly review, but we have a long list of favorites. Some of them inclue Nylabone Healthy Edibles, any type of Greenies, OraVet Dental Hygiene Chews, C.E.T. Veggiedents or Enzymatic Chews, Dr. Lyon's Dental Chews, Minties, Purina Dental Life Chews, Blue Wilderness Wild Bones, Blue Buffalo Dental Bones, Smart Bones, and Merrick Fresh Kisses bones. These and may more can be found at chewy.com
I strongly recommend staying away from rawhide, especially for small and tiny breeds. Dogs don't digest cow hide very well, and the undigested portions of rawhide can get lodged in the digestive tract and create serious and expensive problems for your dog. However, dogs can digest pig hide much better, so porkie sticks, bones or even pigs ears are also good chew treats and are usually fairly long lasting. Be careful with pig skin though. There have been many recent reports of tainted pigs ears, so it may be best to stay away from pig products for awile. Plus, pig hide tends to be greasy, so these treats can be messy.
Keep in mind that with these treats, size is important. All of them come in a variety of sizes. Usually, for tiny breed puppies, the smallest size available is appropriate. As your puppy grows, you may move up to the next size. Be careful not to get treats that are too big nor to small. Oversized treats pose a threat of bacterial infection. It if takes your puppy a long time to finish the treat, bacteria may grow on the bone and infect your puppy each time he chews it. By contrast, treats that are too small pose choking hazards. So, read the size information on the packaging and be sure to select the appropriate size based on your dog's weight.
If your dog is a very aggressive chewer, you may find that he will finish one of these treats in a matter of minutes. That's not really the goal of these treats. Too many treats will put weight on your dog quickly. So if your dog is finishing these treats too quickly, try getting him a larger size. If he's still finishing them too quickly, then you'll want to cut back on the edible chew treats and find him some chew toys that satisfy his urge to chew.
Tips and General Information for Chihuahua Owners and Lovers
Monday, September 16, 2019
Monday, August 26, 2019
Chew Toys for All Dogs...From Light to Power Chewers
Wow, now this is a huge subject. Chewing is nature's way of keeping a dog's teeth clean, so all dogs should have some non-edible chew toys, even if their preference really is the edible chew treats because they really should only be getting one a day of those. There are an unbelievable number of these chew toys on the market. It's mind boggling. I'll recommend a few, but with so many out there, there's no way I could have seen them all. So instead of trying to make tons of recommendations, I'd rather just give you an idea of what to look for in choosing a chew toy for your dog.
The most appropriate chew toy for your dog depends on how much your dog chews. For most small breeds, chewing preferences range from those dogs that don't chew much at all to moderate chewers. In larger breeds, however, power chewers are common, and the needs of moderate and power chewers are definitely not the same.
If you have a light chewer, your best bet may be stuffed animals, especially those with arm/legs or other protrusions that the dog can grab on to and chew. Just be sure that you get stuffed animals made for dogs. They are made to withstand light chewing without coming apart, at least for a while, and they don't have plastic pieces on them that dogs can chew off and on which they can choke.
For moderate chewers, look for toys which are harder than stuffed animals and the more things sticking off the toy, the better. That's what the dog grabs on to to chew, usually. You'll want things like Kongs (again...Kong has so many products) or any other hard rubber chew toys. Please don't get those flimsy latex squeaker toys thinking that they are good chew toys. A moderate chewer will chew the squeaker right out of it, and then may proceed to eat the latex. Tennis balls may also be good for moderate chewers, and they do make them in several sizes, including one that is only 1.5 inches in diameter. I know...tennis balls didn't seem like a great chew toy to me either, but some dogs really enjoy chewing on them. Kong also makes some tennis ball toys with protrusions on them that are ideal for chewing, and some of the small ones squeak when squeezed, so they are double the fun. Another great toy for moderate chewers is a ball called the Nobbly Wobbly. Nobbly Wobbly II has a bell inside them...my puppies always love these. They are woven rubber balls, some are spiky and some more rounded, but the way they are woven allows small mouths to get the perfect grip on the weave to chew. Finally, toys made of canvas stand up better to chewing that regular stuffed toys do, so they work well for moderate chewers.
For heavy chewers, stuffed toys simply won't cut it. Power chewers chew through stuffed toys in a matter of minutes. However, there is hope for these guys! Nylabone has a line of hard nylon bones that stand up well to chewing. They come in all sizes, and if you have a power chewer on your hands, getting a size larger than your dog would normally need makes an excellent chew toy for those babies with the extra strength jaws. I have found that these are too hard for light chewers, so those dogs don't like these Nylabones too much. If you have a power chewer on your hands, please select his toys carefully. Power chewers often swallow pieces of toys that they chew off, and that can cause many issues. You don't want to let these guys chew up stuffed toys or hard rubber toys and eat them. Those materials likely will not be able to pass through your dog's digestive system and could result in the need for surgery to remove blockages.
And for all chewers, rope toys are great. If your dog is an aggressive chewer, you may want a rope toy that is bigger than the size your dog really would need, and you may need to monitor your dog with the rope to ensure he is not swallowing the string. Rope toys are also great dental toys, helping to "floss" the teeth and keep them clean.
Dogs come in all sizes and all chewing strengths, and there are so many possibilities for chew toys on the market now, it can be hard to determine the best one for your dog. If you have heavy chewers, it can be a struggle to find toys that they can't destroy in a matter of minutes Thankfully, most small breed dogs are not heavy chewers, but I hope I have given owners of all types of chewers some ideas for safely helping your dog fulfill that urge to chew!
The most appropriate chew toy for your dog depends on how much your dog chews. For most small breeds, chewing preferences range from those dogs that don't chew much at all to moderate chewers. In larger breeds, however, power chewers are common, and the needs of moderate and power chewers are definitely not the same.
If you have a light chewer, your best bet may be stuffed animals, especially those with arm/legs or other protrusions that the dog can grab on to and chew. Just be sure that you get stuffed animals made for dogs. They are made to withstand light chewing without coming apart, at least for a while, and they don't have plastic pieces on them that dogs can chew off and on which they can choke.
For moderate chewers, look for toys which are harder than stuffed animals and the more things sticking off the toy, the better. That's what the dog grabs on to to chew, usually. You'll want things like Kongs (again...Kong has so many products) or any other hard rubber chew toys. Please don't get those flimsy latex squeaker toys thinking that they are good chew toys. A moderate chewer will chew the squeaker right out of it, and then may proceed to eat the latex. Tennis balls may also be good for moderate chewers, and they do make them in several sizes, including one that is only 1.5 inches in diameter. I know...tennis balls didn't seem like a great chew toy to me either, but some dogs really enjoy chewing on them. Kong also makes some tennis ball toys with protrusions on them that are ideal for chewing, and some of the small ones squeak when squeezed, so they are double the fun. Another great toy for moderate chewers is a ball called the Nobbly Wobbly. Nobbly Wobbly II has a bell inside them...my puppies always love these. They are woven rubber balls, some are spiky and some more rounded, but the way they are woven allows small mouths to get the perfect grip on the weave to chew. Finally, toys made of canvas stand up better to chewing that regular stuffed toys do, so they work well for moderate chewers.
For heavy chewers, stuffed toys simply won't cut it. Power chewers chew through stuffed toys in a matter of minutes. However, there is hope for these guys! Nylabone has a line of hard nylon bones that stand up well to chewing. They come in all sizes, and if you have a power chewer on your hands, getting a size larger than your dog would normally need makes an excellent chew toy for those babies with the extra strength jaws. I have found that these are too hard for light chewers, so those dogs don't like these Nylabones too much. If you have a power chewer on your hands, please select his toys carefully. Power chewers often swallow pieces of toys that they chew off, and that can cause many issues. You don't want to let these guys chew up stuffed toys or hard rubber toys and eat them. Those materials likely will not be able to pass through your dog's digestive system and could result in the need for surgery to remove blockages.
And for all chewers, rope toys are great. If your dog is an aggressive chewer, you may want a rope toy that is bigger than the size your dog really would need, and you may need to monitor your dog with the rope to ensure he is not swallowing the string. Rope toys are also great dental toys, helping to "floss" the teeth and keep them clean.
Dogs come in all sizes and all chewing strengths, and there are so many possibilities for chew toys on the market now, it can be hard to determine the best one for your dog. If you have heavy chewers, it can be a struggle to find toys that they can't destroy in a matter of minutes Thankfully, most small breed dogs are not heavy chewers, but I hope I have given owners of all types of chewers some ideas for safely helping your dog fulfill that urge to chew!
Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Help? My Male is Marking. What Can I Do?
How can I stop my male from "marking"? This is a very common question with a rather difficult answer. Marking is a much easier problem to prevent than it is to stop once it's begun.
If your male is already marking, you may have a battle on your hands trying to get him to stop. The easiest recommendation that we can give is to try belly bands. This is a cumberbund looking band that fits around your dog's waist and basically acts as a diaper, allowing him to continue his behavior while not destroying carpet and furniture.
However, many dogs won't keep these on, and that is where the problem comes in. Marking their territory is instinctual for males. Instincts are very hard to fight. Strict training and behavior modification really is the only way to fight it. You must teach your dog that no means no, regardless of the behavior. Training of this type is a long process, but certainly well worth it in the end. But, as with all other things, every dog is different and this solution may or may not solve a problem with your male marking.
There are several products on the market that are designed to repel dogs from certain areas. Most are sprays and the idea behind them is that the smell of the spray will be repulsive to dogs, but not offensive to humans. It has been our experience that the odors from these sprays are not offensive to humans, but also may not be offensive to your dog. Some dogs didn't like the smell and would stay away from the area sprayed, but some didn't seem to mind. And, again, some males will mark it anyway, just because it doesn't smell like them. Not to mention the fact that it will be difficult to spray every piece of furniture in the house. Most of the sprays do not damage furniture but they are sure messy at first, until they dry.
Our suggestion for stopping marking is having your boy neutered. Even if he is already marking, neutering him may put a stop to it....and it may not. There is no way to know for sure whether this will work for your dog because every dog is different.
Now, if we're talking about a puppy and you want to nip the marking in the bud before it starts, so to speak, we definitely recommend that you have him neutered at an early age. If a male is neutered before he begins to lift his leg, most of them will never do it. The critical age seems to be right around 6 months, so you'll want to have him neutered before that age. There are other benefits to having your male neutered too, at any age. Neutering tends to have a calming effect on males...so if you have a male that is a bit overactive, perhaps consider neutering to help bring on a more calm personality. Having your male neutered also reduces his risk for certain types of cancer, and eliminates the risk of testicular cancer altogether.
If neutering didn't work, he won't keep the belly bands on, and you have tried every spray on the market and none of them work, we recommend that you seek the advise of a good trainer. Beware....there are plenty of bad ones out there. You want a trainer that has had some experience training dogs similar to yours, preferably the same breed. And you'll want to choose a trainer whose training methods are comfortable for you, because the trainer is not only training your dog, but a good trainer will also train you how to train your dog. Also, trainers can be a bit pricey, but, once you find a good one, you'll be amazed at what these professionals can do for you and your dog!
If your male is already marking, you may have a battle on your hands trying to get him to stop. The easiest recommendation that we can give is to try belly bands. This is a cumberbund looking band that fits around your dog's waist and basically acts as a diaper, allowing him to continue his behavior while not destroying carpet and furniture.
However, many dogs won't keep these on, and that is where the problem comes in. Marking their territory is instinctual for males. Instincts are very hard to fight. Strict training and behavior modification really is the only way to fight it. You must teach your dog that no means no, regardless of the behavior. Training of this type is a long process, but certainly well worth it in the end. But, as with all other things, every dog is different and this solution may or may not solve a problem with your male marking.
There are several products on the market that are designed to repel dogs from certain areas. Most are sprays and the idea behind them is that the smell of the spray will be repulsive to dogs, but not offensive to humans. It has been our experience that the odors from these sprays are not offensive to humans, but also may not be offensive to your dog. Some dogs didn't like the smell and would stay away from the area sprayed, but some didn't seem to mind. And, again, some males will mark it anyway, just because it doesn't smell like them. Not to mention the fact that it will be difficult to spray every piece of furniture in the house. Most of the sprays do not damage furniture but they are sure messy at first, until they dry.
Our suggestion for stopping marking is having your boy neutered. Even if he is already marking, neutering him may put a stop to it....and it may not. There is no way to know for sure whether this will work for your dog because every dog is different.
Now, if we're talking about a puppy and you want to nip the marking in the bud before it starts, so to speak, we definitely recommend that you have him neutered at an early age. If a male is neutered before he begins to lift his leg, most of them will never do it. The critical age seems to be right around 6 months, so you'll want to have him neutered before that age. There are other benefits to having your male neutered too, at any age. Neutering tends to have a calming effect on males...so if you have a male that is a bit overactive, perhaps consider neutering to help bring on a more calm personality. Having your male neutered also reduces his risk for certain types of cancer, and eliminates the risk of testicular cancer altogether.
If neutering didn't work, he won't keep the belly bands on, and you have tried every spray on the market and none of them work, we recommend that you seek the advise of a good trainer. Beware....there are plenty of bad ones out there. You want a trainer that has had some experience training dogs similar to yours, preferably the same breed. And you'll want to choose a trainer whose training methods are comfortable for you, because the trainer is not only training your dog, but a good trainer will also train you how to train your dog. Also, trainers can be a bit pricey, but, once you find a good one, you'll be amazed at what these professionals can do for you and your dog!
Tuesday, July 16, 2019
Keeping Fido Cool in the Summer Heat
With summer in full swing and our Chihuahua myths series over, at least for now, it is a good time to talk about keeping your Chihuahua cool in this summer heat. The tips and tricks found here will work well for all breeds of dog. Small and large breeds alike can be very sensitive to the heat, so no matter what breed you have, please read on!
Summer temperatures can be very stressful for dogs when they are outside, so there are a few things to keep in mind to protect your dog from the heat, and from heatstroke. First, remember that small breed dogs should live inside. They should only go outside to potty or play and should not be left outside for long periods of time, especially during times of extreme temperatures. Also, you should never leave any dog outside for long periods during summer months without plenty of shade and fresh cool water.
Keep in mind that watching the temperatures is not enough. Humidity contributes to the heat index, and it is the heat index that determines the experience that we have outside. The temperature may be only 85 degrees, but on a humid day, the heat index can be near 100 degrees. To us, and to our dogs, it feels more like 100 than 85 when we go outside. So, the heat index is the "effective" temperature, and that is what you should monitor. The Weather Channel's app does not give the heat index, but the Weather Bug app lists the temperature and the heat index hourly, so it is an excellent app for monitoring the weather for both you and your dog.
Next, I wish I didn't have to say this, but unfortunately, it keeps happening. Please DO NOT leave your dog in a car with windows up and no A/C during the summer. A car with the windows rolled up amplifies heat, so it can be over 90 degrees inside the car even when the outside temperature is only 75. Imagine how hot it gets in that car when the outside temperature is in the 90's. Leaving your dog in the car during the summer, even for just a few minutes, can cause heatstroke and death! Please don't do it! If you have a key fob, you can leave the car running with the A/C on and the doors locked, but be careful even doing that. In my area, people have broken car windows to let dogs out because they didn't realize the car was running. For a new car that runs very quietly, apparently, it isn't as easy to hear the car running as you might think. So, if you plan to leave your dog in the car with the car running and the A/C on, you might consider taping a note to that effect to one of the windows!
Here's another one that I wish I didn't have to say, but I know people do it every day, because I just saw several examples of it at our city's Independence Day celebration. Please remember that cement and asphalt gets VERY hot during the summer. It gets hot enough to burn sensitive paw pads very quickly. Burned and blistered paw pads is an extremely painful condition for a dog and it can take weeks to heal properly. If you took your shoes off on these surfaces, I promise, you would put them right back on, so keep in mind that your dog's feet need some protection too. Please be mindful of where your dog is walking when you take him for walks. If you walk on the sidewalk or on a roadway, please buy your dog some shoes to protect his feet or switch up your walking routine during the summer and walk your dog in grassy areas.
Keep in mind that the hottest part of the day is generally between 3 and 6 pm, but during the summer, it can be too hot for your dog to stay outside by 10 am in some areas. Limit outside time during the heat of the day to 30 minutes or less. Early mornings before 10 am and evenings after 6 pm are ideal times to take your dog outside for longer periods.
Keeping your dog cool during the summer may seem a bit of a challenge, but I have some tips to help with that. First, ensure that your dog has plenty of shade and fresh cool drinking water when outside.
Next, many dogs love wading pools. We use hard plastic kiddie pools for our dogs, but you can also buy pools designed for dogs. If your dog will be outside for a longer period of time, you will want to keep his wading pool in a shaded area because the sun can heat that water up quickly. Also, during the hottest parts of summer, we will throw some ice cubes in the pool. Some of our dogs like to bob for ice cubes, so it encourages them to spend some time in the water to stay cool, and and it can be a fun activity for them, as well as keeping the pool water nice and cool.
In addition to wading pools, I have seen doggie splash pads on the market now. These are inflatable plastic mats that hook to water hoses and spray water upwards and back down onto the plastic. If you want to conserve water, there is another product on the market that may be right up your alley. It is techincally a drinking fountain, but when a dog learns to paw at the pedal on it, it squirts water up and would be ideal way to let your dog cool himself off without constantly running water all over your yard....unless, of course, your dog loves the thing and learns that he can stand on the pedal and keep the water coming!
You can also use frozen things (other than ice cubes) to help keep your dog cool. There are many toys on the market designed to be frozen. Frozen chew toys will help to keep Fido cool. Plus, you can freeze treats, especially carrots, snap peas and apple slices, to help cool your dog off during the summer. And, some dogs love to eat ice cubes too, so if your dog is one of them, be generous with his ice cube treats during the summer. If he doesn't like plain ice cube, I bet he would eat organic chicken broth frozen into cubes, so try that for a healthy, protein packed cool down treat for your dog.
Now for the less pleasant information. As a dog owner, you should be able to recognize the symptoms of heatstroke in your dog, because should it happen, your quick action could be the difference between life an death for your dog. Symptoms include very heavy or exaggerated panting, lethargy, weakness, drooling, vomiting, rapid heart rate, warm dry skin and more. See the attachment for more information on heatstroke.
Most importantly, just keep in mind that dogs need protection from the heat as much as people do. If you are mindful of that and take precautions to keep your dog cool and comfortable during the summer, you will have a happy pup!
Summer temperatures can be very stressful for dogs when they are outside, so there are a few things to keep in mind to protect your dog from the heat, and from heatstroke. First, remember that small breed dogs should live inside. They should only go outside to potty or play and should not be left outside for long periods of time, especially during times of extreme temperatures. Also, you should never leave any dog outside for long periods during summer months without plenty of shade and fresh cool water.
Keep in mind that watching the temperatures is not enough. Humidity contributes to the heat index, and it is the heat index that determines the experience that we have outside. The temperature may be only 85 degrees, but on a humid day, the heat index can be near 100 degrees. To us, and to our dogs, it feels more like 100 than 85 when we go outside. So, the heat index is the "effective" temperature, and that is what you should monitor. The Weather Channel's app does not give the heat index, but the Weather Bug app lists the temperature and the heat index hourly, so it is an excellent app for monitoring the weather for both you and your dog.
Next, I wish I didn't have to say this, but unfortunately, it keeps happening. Please DO NOT leave your dog in a car with windows up and no A/C during the summer. A car with the windows rolled up amplifies heat, so it can be over 90 degrees inside the car even when the outside temperature is only 75. Imagine how hot it gets in that car when the outside temperature is in the 90's. Leaving your dog in the car during the summer, even for just a few minutes, can cause heatstroke and death! Please don't do it! If you have a key fob, you can leave the car running with the A/C on and the doors locked, but be careful even doing that. In my area, people have broken car windows to let dogs out because they didn't realize the car was running. For a new car that runs very quietly, apparently, it isn't as easy to hear the car running as you might think. So, if you plan to leave your dog in the car with the car running and the A/C on, you might consider taping a note to that effect to one of the windows!
Here's another one that I wish I didn't have to say, but I know people do it every day, because I just saw several examples of it at our city's Independence Day celebration. Please remember that cement and asphalt gets VERY hot during the summer. It gets hot enough to burn sensitive paw pads very quickly. Burned and blistered paw pads is an extremely painful condition for a dog and it can take weeks to heal properly. If you took your shoes off on these surfaces, I promise, you would put them right back on, so keep in mind that your dog's feet need some protection too. Please be mindful of where your dog is walking when you take him for walks. If you walk on the sidewalk or on a roadway, please buy your dog some shoes to protect his feet or switch up your walking routine during the summer and walk your dog in grassy areas.
Keep in mind that the hottest part of the day is generally between 3 and 6 pm, but during the summer, it can be too hot for your dog to stay outside by 10 am in some areas. Limit outside time during the heat of the day to 30 minutes or less. Early mornings before 10 am and evenings after 6 pm are ideal times to take your dog outside for longer periods.
Keeping your dog cool during the summer may seem a bit of a challenge, but I have some tips to help with that. First, ensure that your dog has plenty of shade and fresh cool drinking water when outside.
Next, many dogs love wading pools. We use hard plastic kiddie pools for our dogs, but you can also buy pools designed for dogs. If your dog will be outside for a longer period of time, you will want to keep his wading pool in a shaded area because the sun can heat that water up quickly. Also, during the hottest parts of summer, we will throw some ice cubes in the pool. Some of our dogs like to bob for ice cubes, so it encourages them to spend some time in the water to stay cool, and and it can be a fun activity for them, as well as keeping the pool water nice and cool.
In addition to wading pools, I have seen doggie splash pads on the market now. These are inflatable plastic mats that hook to water hoses and spray water upwards and back down onto the plastic. If you want to conserve water, there is another product on the market that may be right up your alley. It is techincally a drinking fountain, but when a dog learns to paw at the pedal on it, it squirts water up and would be ideal way to let your dog cool himself off without constantly running water all over your yard....unless, of course, your dog loves the thing and learns that he can stand on the pedal and keep the water coming!
You can also use frozen things (other than ice cubes) to help keep your dog cool. There are many toys on the market designed to be frozen. Frozen chew toys will help to keep Fido cool. Plus, you can freeze treats, especially carrots, snap peas and apple slices, to help cool your dog off during the summer. And, some dogs love to eat ice cubes too, so if your dog is one of them, be generous with his ice cube treats during the summer. If he doesn't like plain ice cube, I bet he would eat organic chicken broth frozen into cubes, so try that for a healthy, protein packed cool down treat for your dog.
Now for the less pleasant information. As a dog owner, you should be able to recognize the symptoms of heatstroke in your dog, because should it happen, your quick action could be the difference between life an death for your dog. Symptoms include very heavy or exaggerated panting, lethargy, weakness, drooling, vomiting, rapid heart rate, warm dry skin and more. See the attachment for more information on heatstroke.
Most importantly, just keep in mind that dogs need protection from the heat as much as people do. If you are mindful of that and take precautions to keep your dog cool and comfortable during the summer, you will have a happy pup!
Monday, July 8, 2019
Chihuahua Myths Series - #4 Chihuahuas are Hard to Train
After a short hiatus, I am back to blogging this week with our fourth Chihuahua myth, that these little sweethearts are hard to train. As with most myths, this one likely got started from at least a partial truth. Some very stubborn Chihuahuas may be a bit more challenging to train, but stubbornness and difficulty training are not exactly a common characteristics of the breed. I suspect that there are stubborn, difficult to train examples of every breed. So, let's consider the truths embedded in this myth and dispel the rest as exaggeration or inappropriate extrapolation.
One of the most common questions I get is about house training males. Our poor Chihuahua boys get a really bad rap for marking. Marking is an instinctual behavior that involves urinating on things in the environment, and it stems from the pack mentality that leads males to designate their own physical territory to keep other males away. Yes, intact male Chihuahuas will eventually mark, but the truth is, ALL intact male dogs will eventually mark, and once they start marking, it is all but impossible to get them to stop. So, there is the truth in this myth. What makes it a myth is that the behavior itself can be completely avoided by simply neutering these boys early, before the marking behavior begins. That works as well in Chihuahuas as it does in any other breed.
The little Chihuahua females present a slightly different picture with house training. This is generally where the stubbornness may come in. Some Chihuahua girls can be stubborn. That is the truth in the myth, but every one of them will respond to something...treats or other food, toys, praise....something! The key to training any dog, even a stubborn one, is to find what that thing is that they respond to and then to be consistent in offering it when they behave properly. Once you have that figured out, training of any kind, including house training, becomes easy!
Next, Chihuahuas are VERY smart, and they have the capacity to learn things that you might not consider that they can do. I strongly recommend training basic obedience, at a minimum, from an early age. If you have a high energy Chihuahua puppy, that may be a bit tricky. That is the truth in the myth, but there are some things that you can do to get the training in and minimize frustration. First, keep training sessions very short at first, until maturity calms your puppy down a bit. If you have trouble keeping your puppy's attention, then keep training sessions as short as 15-30 seconds, several times per day. You will be surprised what your Chihuahua puppy can learn in that time frame. If you do several very short training sessions each day, your puppy's skill will sneak up on you and before you know it, you will have a well trained puppy.
As with house training, you may need to find that one thing that your puppy or dog simply cannot resist. Chihuahuas tend to be very food motivated, so more than likely, this will be a favorite treat or perhaps a tiny piece of chicken. Keep training treats really tiny so you don't put unwanted weight on your dog, but keep in mind that food is a powerful motivator for most Chihuahuas. When you find that one thing that your dog cannot resist, use it ONLY when you train. Training time has to be the only time that your dog gets that reward. That usually speeds up the training process considerably and helps your dog to focus on the task at hand.
Finally, if you find that you have a really stubborn Chihuahua on your hands, there is one more thing that you can do to make training easier. You may need to assert your place in your dog's pack. The technique for that is a whole other blog, but basically it involves making your Chihuahua understand that everything good that he or she gets comes from you, and he/she has to make you happy to get it. That is a powerful message for a dog, and it establishes you as your dog's pack leader. You will be surprised how pliable your Chihuahua will become once he/she recognizes you as the leader.
In a nutshell, the notion that Chihuahuas are hard to train is a myth, despite the elements of truth in it, because for some dogs, a bit more work has to be done to determine what your dog's best motivator is. Some need tasty food, others need a strong leader or something else. However, once you have figured that out, training becomes easy, and Chihuahuas are no harder to train than any other breed.
One of the most common questions I get is about house training males. Our poor Chihuahua boys get a really bad rap for marking. Marking is an instinctual behavior that involves urinating on things in the environment, and it stems from the pack mentality that leads males to designate their own physical territory to keep other males away. Yes, intact male Chihuahuas will eventually mark, but the truth is, ALL intact male dogs will eventually mark, and once they start marking, it is all but impossible to get them to stop. So, there is the truth in this myth. What makes it a myth is that the behavior itself can be completely avoided by simply neutering these boys early, before the marking behavior begins. That works as well in Chihuahuas as it does in any other breed.
The little Chihuahua females present a slightly different picture with house training. This is generally where the stubbornness may come in. Some Chihuahua girls can be stubborn. That is the truth in the myth, but every one of them will respond to something...treats or other food, toys, praise....something! The key to training any dog, even a stubborn one, is to find what that thing is that they respond to and then to be consistent in offering it when they behave properly. Once you have that figured out, training of any kind, including house training, becomes easy!
Next, Chihuahuas are VERY smart, and they have the capacity to learn things that you might not consider that they can do. I strongly recommend training basic obedience, at a minimum, from an early age. If you have a high energy Chihuahua puppy, that may be a bit tricky. That is the truth in the myth, but there are some things that you can do to get the training in and minimize frustration. First, keep training sessions very short at first, until maturity calms your puppy down a bit. If you have trouble keeping your puppy's attention, then keep training sessions as short as 15-30 seconds, several times per day. You will be surprised what your Chihuahua puppy can learn in that time frame. If you do several very short training sessions each day, your puppy's skill will sneak up on you and before you know it, you will have a well trained puppy.
As with house training, you may need to find that one thing that your puppy or dog simply cannot resist. Chihuahuas tend to be very food motivated, so more than likely, this will be a favorite treat or perhaps a tiny piece of chicken. Keep training treats really tiny so you don't put unwanted weight on your dog, but keep in mind that food is a powerful motivator for most Chihuahuas. When you find that one thing that your dog cannot resist, use it ONLY when you train. Training time has to be the only time that your dog gets that reward. That usually speeds up the training process considerably and helps your dog to focus on the task at hand.
Finally, if you find that you have a really stubborn Chihuahua on your hands, there is one more thing that you can do to make training easier. You may need to assert your place in your dog's pack. The technique for that is a whole other blog, but basically it involves making your Chihuahua understand that everything good that he or she gets comes from you, and he/she has to make you happy to get it. That is a powerful message for a dog, and it establishes you as your dog's pack leader. You will be surprised how pliable your Chihuahua will become once he/she recognizes you as the leader.
In a nutshell, the notion that Chihuahuas are hard to train is a myth, despite the elements of truth in it, because for some dogs, a bit more work has to be done to determine what your dog's best motivator is. Some need tasty food, others need a strong leader or something else. However, once you have figured that out, training becomes easy, and Chihuahuas are no harder to train than any other breed.
Monday, May 20, 2019
Chihuahua Myths Series - #3 Chihuahuas are Barkers.
I'm back for a week or two after a short hiatus while I had carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand. The right one is up next, so there will be another break at the beginning of June.
Today, I want to consider the myth that all Chihuahuas are barkers. That, of course, is not the case. In fact, I would say that anytime you use the words "all" or "none", you can bet that you have an untrue statement. In this case, Chihuahuas as a breed have gotten a bad reputation because of a few of them. Yes, some Chihuahua do bark a lot. However, most do not. What is the difference? As is usually the case with Chihuahuas, socialization and training are the keys.
I really cannot stress enough how important socialization is in Chihuahuas. It can make all the difference in the temperament of a Chihuahua, but training is just as important. There is a phenomenon that I see happen all the time that is very detrimental to the breed's reputation, but is not the fault of the dogs. Chihuahuas are small and cute, so people have a tendency to treat them like babies rather than like dogs. That is the quickest way to ruin the temperament of your Chihuahua.
You must remember that Chihuahuas are dogs just like any other dog, and they must be treated as such. They understand pack mentality, and in fact, they may require a strong human alpha more than many other breeds do because they tend to have strong personalities themselves. Pack mentality is a topic for another day, but here, it is sufficient to say that being the alpha of your pack is essential for ensuring that your Chihuahua is well behaved. Why? Because once you establish yourself as the alpha, you will have a much easier time teaching your Chihuahua about appropriate behavior, and your Chihuahua will be much more likely to engage in appropriate behavior because he/she understands his/her place in the pack.
Now, back to the barking question. The truth is, many Chihuahuas are naturally quiet dogs. Little to no bark training is necessary for those dogs. Yes, that is a true statement. Chihuahuas are not born barkers. They do not all bark without training...but some do. The good news is, bark training is possible with these dogs, especially if you recognize that your dog is a dog and not a furry human baby!
Bark training does start with socialization though. Socialization with people and other animals is key here, because barky Chihuahuas are usually nervous Chihuahuas. They are nervous because of new or unfamiliar people, animals or situations. So, if you familiarize your dog with those things, he/she will be less nervous and less likely to bark. However, this may not prevent all unwanted barking, and specific bark training may be necessary.
There are many ways to address bark training, as is the case with most any training. Clicker training has worked in many cases. Obedience training may be effective as well, and should definitely be a part of your Chihuahua's training either way. Of course, treat training may work as well. However, my favorite tool for bark training in Chihuahuas is the squirt bottle. Chihuahuas do respond to positive reinforcement, but the more stubborn ones may respond better to subtle negative reinforcement provided by a squirt bottle that holds nothing but water. A quick squirt over your dog's head while saying "quiet" or "no bark" in a firm tone has proven a safe and effective method to curb unwanted barking. Just keep in mind though that this method alone may not be sufficient without socialization and obedience training.
You're probably seeing a pattern in these posts by now. When it comes to Chihuahuas, socialization is of the utmost importance and solves many of the stereotypical issues for which the breed has developed a difficult reputation!
Today, I want to consider the myth that all Chihuahuas are barkers. That, of course, is not the case. In fact, I would say that anytime you use the words "all" or "none", you can bet that you have an untrue statement. In this case, Chihuahuas as a breed have gotten a bad reputation because of a few of them. Yes, some Chihuahua do bark a lot. However, most do not. What is the difference? As is usually the case with Chihuahuas, socialization and training are the keys.
I really cannot stress enough how important socialization is in Chihuahuas. It can make all the difference in the temperament of a Chihuahua, but training is just as important. There is a phenomenon that I see happen all the time that is very detrimental to the breed's reputation, but is not the fault of the dogs. Chihuahuas are small and cute, so people have a tendency to treat them like babies rather than like dogs. That is the quickest way to ruin the temperament of your Chihuahua.
You must remember that Chihuahuas are dogs just like any other dog, and they must be treated as such. They understand pack mentality, and in fact, they may require a strong human alpha more than many other breeds do because they tend to have strong personalities themselves. Pack mentality is a topic for another day, but here, it is sufficient to say that being the alpha of your pack is essential for ensuring that your Chihuahua is well behaved. Why? Because once you establish yourself as the alpha, you will have a much easier time teaching your Chihuahua about appropriate behavior, and your Chihuahua will be much more likely to engage in appropriate behavior because he/she understands his/her place in the pack.
Now, back to the barking question. The truth is, many Chihuahuas are naturally quiet dogs. Little to no bark training is necessary for those dogs. Yes, that is a true statement. Chihuahuas are not born barkers. They do not all bark without training...but some do. The good news is, bark training is possible with these dogs, especially if you recognize that your dog is a dog and not a furry human baby!
Bark training does start with socialization though. Socialization with people and other animals is key here, because barky Chihuahuas are usually nervous Chihuahuas. They are nervous because of new or unfamiliar people, animals or situations. So, if you familiarize your dog with those things, he/she will be less nervous and less likely to bark. However, this may not prevent all unwanted barking, and specific bark training may be necessary.
There are many ways to address bark training, as is the case with most any training. Clicker training has worked in many cases. Obedience training may be effective as well, and should definitely be a part of your Chihuahua's training either way. Of course, treat training may work as well. However, my favorite tool for bark training in Chihuahuas is the squirt bottle. Chihuahuas do respond to positive reinforcement, but the more stubborn ones may respond better to subtle negative reinforcement provided by a squirt bottle that holds nothing but water. A quick squirt over your dog's head while saying "quiet" or "no bark" in a firm tone has proven a safe and effective method to curb unwanted barking. Just keep in mind though that this method alone may not be sufficient without socialization and obedience training.
You're probably seeing a pattern in these posts by now. When it comes to Chihuahuas, socialization is of the utmost importance and solves many of the stereotypical issues for which the breed has developed a difficult reputation!
Monday, April 29, 2019
Chihuahua Myths Series- #2 Chihuahuas Are Not Good With Children
The myth that I will bust this week is that Chihuahuas are not good with children. That could not be further from the truth! Chihuahuas are very loyal dogs, and they love their humans more than anything. This includes the tiny human members of their families. I have seen Chihuahuas snuggle with newborn babies, tag along beside toddlers learning to walk and chill with teenagers and their friends. Chihuahuas are very much family dogs, and they can bond with all members of the family. In fact, I have known (actually, I raised) Chihuahua puppies that loved their children so much that they saved a newborn's life one time!
So, Chihuahuas definitely do not deserve the designation as "bad dogs to be around children", but they are labeled as such all the time. Why is that? As with most things having to do with Chihuahua temperament, the answer is in the socialization. Chihuahua puppies must be socialized from birth. That is just a simple fact of the breed, but sadly, not all who raise Chihuahuas understand the breed. They don't socialize from birth, and they don't educate their puppies' owners about the importance of continuing that socialization after they go home. As a result, there are far too many Chihuahuas in the world who have not been properly or completely socialized, and those Chihuahuas can have issues with people in general, but are more likely to have problems with children because children are unpredictable.
There is another issue associated with how Chihuahuas get along with children that many people consider taboo, but it is a very real issue. That is, if you want a Chihuahua to be nice to children, you must also teach the children to be nice to the Chihuahua. In most cases where children and well socialized Chihuahuas do not get along, the cause is that the children were not taught how to properly handle the Chihuahua as a puppy. Children who pull on ears and tails, carry puppies around by their necks and engage in other similar actions are probably not going to be well liked by the family Chihuahua, or any family dog, for that matter. Granted, there are those select few breeds that don't seem to mind that, but small breeds cannot tolerate such physical handling.
So, the answer to having a Chihuahua that bonds well with your children is first to ensure that your puppy comes from someone who understands the necessity of socializing from birth. Then, you must continue the socialization process throughout your puppy's first year. This includes gentle and supervised socialization with your children. You must teach your children how to properly handle the puppy and monitor their interactions with the puppy to ensure that they practice what you taught them. If your children and your puppy get off to a good start, you can be assured that your Chihuahua will bond with and protect your children just as he/she does for you and the other adults in your home.
So, Chihuahuas definitely do not deserve the designation as "bad dogs to be around children", but they are labeled as such all the time. Why is that? As with most things having to do with Chihuahua temperament, the answer is in the socialization. Chihuahua puppies must be socialized from birth. That is just a simple fact of the breed, but sadly, not all who raise Chihuahuas understand the breed. They don't socialize from birth, and they don't educate their puppies' owners about the importance of continuing that socialization after they go home. As a result, there are far too many Chihuahuas in the world who have not been properly or completely socialized, and those Chihuahuas can have issues with people in general, but are more likely to have problems with children because children are unpredictable.
There is another issue associated with how Chihuahuas get along with children that many people consider taboo, but it is a very real issue. That is, if you want a Chihuahua to be nice to children, you must also teach the children to be nice to the Chihuahua. In most cases where children and well socialized Chihuahuas do not get along, the cause is that the children were not taught how to properly handle the Chihuahua as a puppy. Children who pull on ears and tails, carry puppies around by their necks and engage in other similar actions are probably not going to be well liked by the family Chihuahua, or any family dog, for that matter. Granted, there are those select few breeds that don't seem to mind that, but small breeds cannot tolerate such physical handling.
So, the answer to having a Chihuahua that bonds well with your children is first to ensure that your puppy comes from someone who understands the necessity of socializing from birth. Then, you must continue the socialization process throughout your puppy's first year. This includes gentle and supervised socialization with your children. You must teach your children how to properly handle the puppy and monitor their interactions with the puppy to ensure that they practice what you taught them. If your children and your puppy get off to a good start, you can be assured that your Chihuahua will bond with and protect your children just as he/she does for you and the other adults in your home.
Tuesday, April 23, 2019
Chihuahua Myths Series - #1 Chihuahuas Are Not Good With Other Dogs.
Now that we have completed our parasite series, I want to start a series that will be a little less unsavory! Let's get to work debunking the myths about Chihuahuas. This series is specifically about Chihuahuas as a breed, though some of it might ring true for other dog breeds as well. While each topic in this series is labeled a myth, some truth may be inherent in some of the topics, but in those instances, I will explain how to ensure that is remains a myth for your particular Chihuahua.
The first myth that we will tackle this week is that Chihuahuas are not good with other dogs! This is one of those topics that does have a pinch of truth to it in certain circumstances, but your Chihuahua does not have to be the Cujo type with other dogs. As you read on, you will understand the key to preventing that unwanted behavior.
Chihuahuas have always been considered a clanish breed. It's widely accepted that Chihuahuas recognize their own "kind" and stick with them, shunning all others. I have found that to be very untrue. While Chihuahuas usually do great with other Chihuahuas, there are some exceptions to that rule. There are also a great many exceptions to the idea that Chi's don't do well with other breeds of dog....many many exceptions to that, in fact. The simple fact is this...if a Chihuahua is socialized properly from the start, he will likely do well with all other dogs....and most other animals in general. We have successfully placed our puppies in home with all other breeds of dog, including Great Danes, as well as cats, pet goats and pigs, ferrets, rabbits and many others. Our babies bond with anything that doesn't eat them first!
The truth is, Chihuahuas form bonds with one another similar to the bonds they form with their human caregivers. That is a fact...no denying it. But if a Chi isn't ever around other animals, he's not any more likely to love a strange Chi than he is a strange dog of any other breed.
By the same rule, if a Chihuahua has been introduced to any animal from a young age, he is very likely to accept that animal as one that he can bond with, even if it's a cat, goat, ferret, pot-bellied pig or whatever. The key to that is early socialization, but if you have an adult Chihuahua that did not get that early socialization, don't panic. You can still work to socialize him/her and make great strides in terms of behavior with other dogs. More on that later!
However, if you bring an older Chihuahua into your family, don't be surprised if he doesn't get along with other pets well, at least not at first. If that dog was an only pet, as many Chihuahuas are, he has not had the opportunity to be in contact with other animals and he may be timid and downright rude when it comes to the animals wanting to have contact with him. With some effort on your part and a lot of patience, though, you should be able to change that. Chi's are very social animals and they have the desire to be social with other animals as well as people. You may just have to put a little work into bringing that out in them.
For starters, limit a timid Chihuahua's contact with other animals at first, and make sure it is always supervised. If your Chihuahua comes running back to you as soon as another dog sniffs him, don't pick him up and cuddle him. This reinforces his idea that he should stay away from that dog. Instead, gently tell him it's alright and perhaps invite the other dog over to sniff the Chihuahua near you, where the Chi feels more comfortable. Treat the other animal as you normally would, but don't ignore the Chi...try to make him a part of a cuddle session with all three of you. Make this attempt a few times a day and you should see some improvement, though it may take a little while for your Chi to be comfortable in his surroundings enough to want another furry friend.
Another tactic that seems to work very well is to use positive reinforcement. With this method, you teach your Chihuahua to associate other dogs or animals with something that your Chi loves very much. That is usually a special treat but may also be a favorite toy, a specific game that you play with him or anything that your Chi really loves. When another dog is around, and your Chihuahua is polite to the dog, he gets his favorite thing. When he is rude to the other dog, his favorite thing is withheld. Chihuahuas are very smart. You might be surprised how quickly your dog will catch on to this.
As time goes on, gradually increase the requirement for getting the treat. For example, at first, you might give a treat if your Chi simply allows the other dog to pass by him without growling. As he learns to associate good behavior with the treat, you will increase that to include the requirement for your Chi to actually interact with the other dog just a bit. This interaction might be a small as a polite sniff at first, but should increase to being able to sit next to each other, and hopefully to actually playing with the other dog eventually. This process may take some time and patience, but it will be time well spent. Plus, it also helps you bond with your Chihuahua.
In the end, most Chihuahuas, if exposed to other animals from an early age, do very well with them, no matter what the animal is. If yours doesn't, just use your patience and training skills to change it. All dogs can learn, no matter what their age!
The first myth that we will tackle this week is that Chihuahuas are not good with other dogs! This is one of those topics that does have a pinch of truth to it in certain circumstances, but your Chihuahua does not have to be the Cujo type with other dogs. As you read on, you will understand the key to preventing that unwanted behavior.
Chihuahuas have always been considered a clanish breed. It's widely accepted that Chihuahuas recognize their own "kind" and stick with them, shunning all others. I have found that to be very untrue. While Chihuahuas usually do great with other Chihuahuas, there are some exceptions to that rule. There are also a great many exceptions to the idea that Chi's don't do well with other breeds of dog....many many exceptions to that, in fact. The simple fact is this...if a Chihuahua is socialized properly from the start, he will likely do well with all other dogs....and most other animals in general. We have successfully placed our puppies in home with all other breeds of dog, including Great Danes, as well as cats, pet goats and pigs, ferrets, rabbits and many others. Our babies bond with anything that doesn't eat them first!
The truth is, Chihuahuas form bonds with one another similar to the bonds they form with their human caregivers. That is a fact...no denying it. But if a Chi isn't ever around other animals, he's not any more likely to love a strange Chi than he is a strange dog of any other breed.
By the same rule, if a Chihuahua has been introduced to any animal from a young age, he is very likely to accept that animal as one that he can bond with, even if it's a cat, goat, ferret, pot-bellied pig or whatever. The key to that is early socialization, but if you have an adult Chihuahua that did not get that early socialization, don't panic. You can still work to socialize him/her and make great strides in terms of behavior with other dogs. More on that later!
However, if you bring an older Chihuahua into your family, don't be surprised if he doesn't get along with other pets well, at least not at first. If that dog was an only pet, as many Chihuahuas are, he has not had the opportunity to be in contact with other animals and he may be timid and downright rude when it comes to the animals wanting to have contact with him. With some effort on your part and a lot of patience, though, you should be able to change that. Chi's are very social animals and they have the desire to be social with other animals as well as people. You may just have to put a little work into bringing that out in them.
For starters, limit a timid Chihuahua's contact with other animals at first, and make sure it is always supervised. If your Chihuahua comes running back to you as soon as another dog sniffs him, don't pick him up and cuddle him. This reinforces his idea that he should stay away from that dog. Instead, gently tell him it's alright and perhaps invite the other dog over to sniff the Chihuahua near you, where the Chi feels more comfortable. Treat the other animal as you normally would, but don't ignore the Chi...try to make him a part of a cuddle session with all three of you. Make this attempt a few times a day and you should see some improvement, though it may take a little while for your Chi to be comfortable in his surroundings enough to want another furry friend.
Another tactic that seems to work very well is to use positive reinforcement. With this method, you teach your Chihuahua to associate other dogs or animals with something that your Chi loves very much. That is usually a special treat but may also be a favorite toy, a specific game that you play with him or anything that your Chi really loves. When another dog is around, and your Chihuahua is polite to the dog, he gets his favorite thing. When he is rude to the other dog, his favorite thing is withheld. Chihuahuas are very smart. You might be surprised how quickly your dog will catch on to this.
As time goes on, gradually increase the requirement for getting the treat. For example, at first, you might give a treat if your Chi simply allows the other dog to pass by him without growling. As he learns to associate good behavior with the treat, you will increase that to include the requirement for your Chi to actually interact with the other dog just a bit. This interaction might be a small as a polite sniff at first, but should increase to being able to sit next to each other, and hopefully to actually playing with the other dog eventually. This process may take some time and patience, but it will be time well spent. Plus, it also helps you bond with your Chihuahua.
In the end, most Chihuahuas, if exposed to other animals from an early age, do very well with them, no matter what the animal is. If yours doesn't, just use your patience and training skills to change it. All dogs can learn, no matter what their age!
Monday, April 15, 2019
#6 Parasites - Heartworms
All dogs can get them, but they also can all be protected from these nasty and potentially deadly parasites. Heartworms are definitely not a dog's best friend.
There isn't a great deal to say about this type of worms. Mature heartworms live in the hearts of their hosts and lay eggs, which are swept away with the blood pumping through the heart. The eggs circulate throughout the body until they are mature, and then they come to rest in the heart. Heartworms are passed from dog to dog by mosquitos. When a mosquito bites an infected dog, it carries the heartworm eggs from that dog to the next one that it bites.
The part that makes these worms deadly is their numbers. The heart of a dog, especially a tiny breed like Chihuahuas, can only handle so many heartworms clogging it up before the heart begins to have to work overtime to keep up with the demands of the body. Too many worms blocking off heart valves, filling up the chambers of the heart and clogging up major arteries and veins can lead to disastrous consequences for your dog. Dogs with heartworms most often die from what is essentially congestive heart failure.
The worse news? Often the treatment that vets use carries just as deadly a consequence. The only way to kill heartworms is to poison them. It takes large doses of Ivomectin to kill adult heartworms, which in turn, means that you're also administering large doses of this poison to your dog, and sometimes the dog's system cannot withstand it. Dogs can die from heartworm treatment.
The good news is, it's easy to prevent your dog from getting heartworms. There are many monthly heartworm preventatives on the market now, including Heart Guard and Revolution. Your dog must be tested for heartworms to ensure that he is negative, and you must have a vet's prescription for these preventatives, but they are well worth it. Also, there are topical flea and tick treatment for dogs that have mosquito repellant in them, such as Frontline Plus and K-9 Advantix. Those are effective in keeping the heartworm carrying mosquitos off of your dog.
It is very important for the health and safety of your dog that you get him on heartworm preventative and have him tested at least yearly for heartworms. Keep in mind though, most vets won't test for heartworms or start heartworm preventative until six months of age. You will still want to try to keep the mosquitos off of your puppy until then though. In puppies, a flea and tick spray that also works on mosquitoes is the best bet.
See the link below for more information.
https://www.heartwormsociety.org/heartworms-in-dogs
There isn't a great deal to say about this type of worms. Mature heartworms live in the hearts of their hosts and lay eggs, which are swept away with the blood pumping through the heart. The eggs circulate throughout the body until they are mature, and then they come to rest in the heart. Heartworms are passed from dog to dog by mosquitos. When a mosquito bites an infected dog, it carries the heartworm eggs from that dog to the next one that it bites.
The part that makes these worms deadly is their numbers. The heart of a dog, especially a tiny breed like Chihuahuas, can only handle so many heartworms clogging it up before the heart begins to have to work overtime to keep up with the demands of the body. Too many worms blocking off heart valves, filling up the chambers of the heart and clogging up major arteries and veins can lead to disastrous consequences for your dog. Dogs with heartworms most often die from what is essentially congestive heart failure.
The worse news? Often the treatment that vets use carries just as deadly a consequence. The only way to kill heartworms is to poison them. It takes large doses of Ivomectin to kill adult heartworms, which in turn, means that you're also administering large doses of this poison to your dog, and sometimes the dog's system cannot withstand it. Dogs can die from heartworm treatment.
The good news is, it's easy to prevent your dog from getting heartworms. There are many monthly heartworm preventatives on the market now, including Heart Guard and Revolution. Your dog must be tested for heartworms to ensure that he is negative, and you must have a vet's prescription for these preventatives, but they are well worth it. Also, there are topical flea and tick treatment for dogs that have mosquito repellant in them, such as Frontline Plus and K-9 Advantix. Those are effective in keeping the heartworm carrying mosquitos off of your dog.
It is very important for the health and safety of your dog that you get him on heartworm preventative and have him tested at least yearly for heartworms. Keep in mind though, most vets won't test for heartworms or start heartworm preventative until six months of age. You will still want to try to keep the mosquitos off of your puppy until then though. In puppies, a flea and tick spray that also works on mosquitoes is the best bet.
See the link below for more information.
https://www.heartwormsociety.org/heartworms-in-dogs
Monday, April 8, 2019
#5 Parasites - Ear Mites
Ear mites are a parasite that many dogs owners have probably already dealt with. They are very common and quite contagious. Ear mites are a fairly simple parasite and there isn't a great deal to say about them.
Ear mites spend their entire life cycle on their host. They irritate the linings of the ear, down in the ear canal and can cause some pretty intense itching. The most common signs of an ear mite infection are a black, waxy build up in the ear and an animal that pays more than normal attention to it's ears, such as scratching at the ears or shaking it's head more than normal.
Treatment of ear mites usually involves a pyrethrin and mineral oil solution that is massaged into the ear. Treatments may not be effective if the ears are not cleaned thoroughly before treatment, or if the treatment is discontinued too early. Treatment is often recommend in 3 cycles, one week apart, with a cleaning of the ear prior to each cycle.
Because pyrethrin can be toxic if administered incorrectly, it is best to ask your vet if you see signs of ear mites.
For more information on ear mites, visit the link below.
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/ear-mites-otodectes-in-cats-and-dogs
Ear mites spend their entire life cycle on their host. They irritate the linings of the ear, down in the ear canal and can cause some pretty intense itching. The most common signs of an ear mite infection are a black, waxy build up in the ear and an animal that pays more than normal attention to it's ears, such as scratching at the ears or shaking it's head more than normal.
Treatment of ear mites usually involves a pyrethrin and mineral oil solution that is massaged into the ear. Treatments may not be effective if the ears are not cleaned thoroughly before treatment, or if the treatment is discontinued too early. Treatment is often recommend in 3 cycles, one week apart, with a cleaning of the ear prior to each cycle.
Because pyrethrin can be toxic if administered incorrectly, it is best to ask your vet if you see signs of ear mites.
For more information on ear mites, visit the link below.
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/ear-mites-otodectes-in-cats-and-dogs
Monday, April 1, 2019
#4 Parasites - Fleas and Ticks
This week I will continue my series on parasites with a discussion about flea and tick control.
Fleas are the most common external parasites for dogs, followed closely by ticks. Each of these parasites comes complete with a unique set of problems that they cause their host. But the good news is, they are easily controlled.
Fleas are most commonly associated with itching, but they carry other problems as well. For instance, fleas transmit tape worms, and some dogs have allergies to fleas that can cause major skin irritations.
Ticks are a little different. There are several different types of ticks and they carry several different types of diseases which can be very problematic for dogs and humans alike. Rocky Mountain Spotted Tick Fever and Lyme Disease are among these diseases and are possibly the most common.
Luckily for dog owners, fleas and ticks are easy to control in dogs. In my experience, it is easiest to control fleas and tick in your yard rather than putting chemicals on your dog. Go to any Wal-Mart or hardware store and you should find a variety of granules or sprays that will handle fleas and ticks in the yard.
If you prefer spot-on treatments, there are numerous products on the market to control fleas and ticks. Canine Advantix, Revolution, Bio Spot, Zodiac, Adams and several others are effective spot on treatments, which are a single application per month, applied to the skin between the shoulder blades. We have found in recent years that it is best to stay away from Frontline because it is less effective now than it was. Also, do not, under any circumstances, use Hartz or Sergeant's brands of spot-ons or sprays. They can cause sever reactions and large, painful sores.
I do have one word of warning about the spot-on treatments though. Keep in mind how they work. It is administered onto the surface of the skin, but it then gets absorbed and collects in the dog's lymphatic system to be secreted out through normal secretions. That is how it works across the dog's body and throughout the month that each treatment is designed to cover. However, I have to wonder how good it is for the dogs to be actually absorbing these chemicals its body. That is why, for my dogs, I prefer keeping the yard treated and using a spray for temporary control in the event that we do see fleas.
There are a number of sprays that are effective in controlling fleas and ticks. My personal favorites are Zodiac, Adams and Vet's Best. Again, stay away from Frontline. Vet's Best is an all natural spray, but it is not quite as effective, in my experience. Though these sprays are effective, they wear off quickly (most in about 7 days). Also, be aware that dogs cannot lick the spray while it is wet. Sprays are chemicals similar to spot-on treatments, so you must keep your dog from trying to lick it off until it dries.
If you have a strong infestation, it is best to spray the dog with a spray, allow it it sit for a few minutes to kill active insects and then bathe the dog. Then, you can use a spot-on until you can get the infestation in your yard under control.
Please note: for puppies, you should not use a spot-on until at least six months of age. Prior to that, you should not treat for fleas and ticks unless there is a need. In that event, spray a clean cloth with a flea and tick spray and wrap the puppy in it for about ten minutes. Then bathe the puppy. Repeat daily until the infestation is under control.
You can also use flea and tick shampoos. Some of them claim that they last a month, but my experience is that they only protect for about a week. Still, it is a good alternative to spot-on treatments when there is not an active infestation.
For information on flea and tick control click the following links
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=591
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=601
For information on Rocky Mountain Spotted Tick fever in dogs, click the link below
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=472
For information on the types of ticks click the link below
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1588&articleid=603
For information on Lyme Disease in humans click the link below
http://www.anapsid.org/lyme/matthewgoss/typeofticks.html
Fleas are the most common external parasites for dogs, followed closely by ticks. Each of these parasites comes complete with a unique set of problems that they cause their host. But the good news is, they are easily controlled.
Fleas are most commonly associated with itching, but they carry other problems as well. For instance, fleas transmit tape worms, and some dogs have allergies to fleas that can cause major skin irritations.
Ticks are a little different. There are several different types of ticks and they carry several different types of diseases which can be very problematic for dogs and humans alike. Rocky Mountain Spotted Tick Fever and Lyme Disease are among these diseases and are possibly the most common.
Luckily for dog owners, fleas and ticks are easy to control in dogs. In my experience, it is easiest to control fleas and tick in your yard rather than putting chemicals on your dog. Go to any Wal-Mart or hardware store and you should find a variety of granules or sprays that will handle fleas and ticks in the yard.
If you prefer spot-on treatments, there are numerous products on the market to control fleas and ticks. Canine Advantix, Revolution, Bio Spot, Zodiac, Adams and several others are effective spot on treatments, which are a single application per month, applied to the skin between the shoulder blades. We have found in recent years that it is best to stay away from Frontline because it is less effective now than it was. Also, do not, under any circumstances, use Hartz or Sergeant's brands of spot-ons or sprays. They can cause sever reactions and large, painful sores.
I do have one word of warning about the spot-on treatments though. Keep in mind how they work. It is administered onto the surface of the skin, but it then gets absorbed and collects in the dog's lymphatic system to be secreted out through normal secretions. That is how it works across the dog's body and throughout the month that each treatment is designed to cover. However, I have to wonder how good it is for the dogs to be actually absorbing these chemicals its body. That is why, for my dogs, I prefer keeping the yard treated and using a spray for temporary control in the event that we do see fleas.
There are a number of sprays that are effective in controlling fleas and ticks. My personal favorites are Zodiac, Adams and Vet's Best. Again, stay away from Frontline. Vet's Best is an all natural spray, but it is not quite as effective, in my experience. Though these sprays are effective, they wear off quickly (most in about 7 days). Also, be aware that dogs cannot lick the spray while it is wet. Sprays are chemicals similar to spot-on treatments, so you must keep your dog from trying to lick it off until it dries.
If you have a strong infestation, it is best to spray the dog with a spray, allow it it sit for a few minutes to kill active insects and then bathe the dog. Then, you can use a spot-on until you can get the infestation in your yard under control.
Please note: for puppies, you should not use a spot-on until at least six months of age. Prior to that, you should not treat for fleas and ticks unless there is a need. In that event, spray a clean cloth with a flea and tick spray and wrap the puppy in it for about ten minutes. Then bathe the puppy. Repeat daily until the infestation is under control.
You can also use flea and tick shampoos. Some of them claim that they last a month, but my experience is that they only protect for about a week. Still, it is a good alternative to spot-on treatments when there is not an active infestation.
For information on flea and tick control click the following links
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=591
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=601
For information on Rocky Mountain Spotted Tick fever in dogs, click the link below
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=472
For information on the types of ticks click the link below
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1588&articleid=603
For information on Lyme Disease in humans click the link below
http://www.anapsid.org/lyme/matthewgoss/typeofticks.html
Monday, March 25, 2019
#3 Parasites - Mange! Yuck!
In my parasite series this week, I will tell you everything you never wanted to know about those lovely skin parasites...mange mites!
Mange, what an ugly word. Nobody likes to deal with it. Mange can be a difficult and messy thing to treat.
Mange is caused by a parasitic mite that burrows into the animals skin or nestles into the hair follicles, which is what causes the itching. There are two primary forms of mange, sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange. These two forms are very different. They are caused by different mites, present with different symptoms and deal the animal varying amounts of misery.
Sarcoptic mange usually centers around the face and ears, but can also appear on the legs, especially at the joints, and even on the feet. Sarcoptic mange is contagious, even to people, though in people, usually the only symptom is a slight itching that goes away without treatment. Itching and hair loss are the primary symptoms of this parasitic infection in dogs. It is sarcoptic mange that causes the intense itching. Infected animals will scratch themselves raw, allowing secondary skin infections to take hold. It is those infections that will make an animal with sarcoptic mange ill. The good news is, sarcoptic mange usually responds well to treatment. The primary form of treatment for this parasite is weekly injections of Ivermectin. Some breeds of dog do not do well on this treatment though, and they will be treated with a weekly Lyme Sulfur dip. BEWARE: Small dog owers take note...this dip is VERY toxic and has been known to do small breeds more harm than good.
Demodectic mange is a little different. The mites burrow into the hair follicles, which causes the hair loss. Dogs with demodectic mange rarely have a great deal of itching, which helps to keep the secondary skin infections from setting in. The primary symptom of this parasitic infection is hair loss. However, the hair loss can vary from one very small patch, to complete hair loss over the entire body.
There are two types of demodectic mange, and they get get their names from the amount of hair loss associated with the infection. Localized demodex is confined usually to one or a few small patches of hair loss, and is generally seen on the torso, but may also appear around the ears or hauches. Generalized demodex is the term for the wide spread hair loss. There is a higher risk of secondary infections in the generalized form.
Demodex is usually considered the "puppy mange" because it is not often seen in healthy adult dogs. Unlike sarcoptic mange, all dogs carry the mange mites for demodectic mange. They contract them from their mother shortly after birth. In most dogs, the immune system keeps these mites in check, but in animals with underdeveloped (in puppies) or weakened (in animals who have been ill) immune systems, the mites are able to flourish. Treatment of demodectic mange is usually the same as in sarcoptic mange, but demodex does not usually respond quite as easily to it. This form often requires a longer treatment cycle. However, the good news is, a great many cases of demodex will clear up without treatment. As the immune system gets stronger, the dog's body will once again be able to bring those mites under control.
So, if you see patches of hair loss on your dog, or if your dog begins to constantly and sometimes violently scratch himself, you should suspect mange and take him to the vet for a skin scrape test. These tests are not the most pleasant, and will leave a little sore for a few days, but they are the only means for detecting mange. Sarcoptic mange must always be treated, but if you have a small breed dog with localized demodectic mange, my recommendation is to do nothing unless it becomes generalized or fur doesn't grow back on its own after a couple of months. For small breeds, the cure really can be much worse than the disease!
Mange, what an ugly word. Nobody likes to deal with it. Mange can be a difficult and messy thing to treat.
Mange is caused by a parasitic mite that burrows into the animals skin or nestles into the hair follicles, which is what causes the itching. There are two primary forms of mange, sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange. These two forms are very different. They are caused by different mites, present with different symptoms and deal the animal varying amounts of misery.
Sarcoptic mange usually centers around the face and ears, but can also appear on the legs, especially at the joints, and even on the feet. Sarcoptic mange is contagious, even to people, though in people, usually the only symptom is a slight itching that goes away without treatment. Itching and hair loss are the primary symptoms of this parasitic infection in dogs. It is sarcoptic mange that causes the intense itching. Infected animals will scratch themselves raw, allowing secondary skin infections to take hold. It is those infections that will make an animal with sarcoptic mange ill. The good news is, sarcoptic mange usually responds well to treatment. The primary form of treatment for this parasite is weekly injections of Ivermectin. Some breeds of dog do not do well on this treatment though, and they will be treated with a weekly Lyme Sulfur dip. BEWARE: Small dog owers take note...this dip is VERY toxic and has been known to do small breeds more harm than good.
Demodectic mange is a little different. The mites burrow into the hair follicles, which causes the hair loss. Dogs with demodectic mange rarely have a great deal of itching, which helps to keep the secondary skin infections from setting in. The primary symptom of this parasitic infection is hair loss. However, the hair loss can vary from one very small patch, to complete hair loss over the entire body.
There are two types of demodectic mange, and they get get their names from the amount of hair loss associated with the infection. Localized demodex is confined usually to one or a few small patches of hair loss, and is generally seen on the torso, but may also appear around the ears or hauches. Generalized demodex is the term for the wide spread hair loss. There is a higher risk of secondary infections in the generalized form.
Demodex is usually considered the "puppy mange" because it is not often seen in healthy adult dogs. Unlike sarcoptic mange, all dogs carry the mange mites for demodectic mange. They contract them from their mother shortly after birth. In most dogs, the immune system keeps these mites in check, but in animals with underdeveloped (in puppies) or weakened (in animals who have been ill) immune systems, the mites are able to flourish. Treatment of demodectic mange is usually the same as in sarcoptic mange, but demodex does not usually respond quite as easily to it. This form often requires a longer treatment cycle. However, the good news is, a great many cases of demodex will clear up without treatment. As the immune system gets stronger, the dog's body will once again be able to bring those mites under control.
So, if you see patches of hair loss on your dog, or if your dog begins to constantly and sometimes violently scratch himself, you should suspect mange and take him to the vet for a skin scrape test. These tests are not the most pleasant, and will leave a little sore for a few days, but they are the only means for detecting mange. Sarcoptic mange must always be treated, but if you have a small breed dog with localized demodectic mange, my recommendation is to do nothing unless it becomes generalized or fur doesn't grow back on its own after a couple of months. For small breeds, the cure really can be much worse than the disease!
Monday, March 18, 2019
#2 Parasites - Protozoal Parasites of the Digestive System.
This week, I continue the series on parasites with some information about intestinal protozoa parasites, coccidia and giardia.
The two most common intestinal parasites in canines, besides intestinal worms, are coccidia and giardia. Both of these organisms are protozoal and both can wreak havoc on the digestive system, especially of young puppies.
Coccidia and giardia usually present with almost identical symptoms. The beginning symptom is diarrhea, which usually will progress to a very watery stool and often will be bloody or blood streaked. Then you may begin to see some depression and fatigue, which are often the results of hypoglycemia and dehydration, brought about by the diarrhea. Some pups with coccidia or giardia will refuse food and water and some won't....usually though, it's those affected with giardia that refuse food and water because giardia often causes severe abdominal cramping.
Giardia infection usually takes place as a result of a contaminated water source, however, both coccidia and giardia cysts can live in the soil for quite some time, so it is possible for puppies to pick up the cysts in the soil and ingest them that way. Both protozoa can be passed from other infected dogs in feces as well.
Coccidia and giardia infect the host in similar ways. Cysts are picked up from soil or passed in fecal matter from infected animals and any animal that comes into contact with the cysts can become infected by picking up the cysts on it's paws and ingesting them when it cleans itself.
Once inside the host, giardia and coccidia begin to differentiate in how they act upon their hosts. For an indepth look at how these two protozoal parasites behave inside the host, click on the links below.
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/20_4/features/Giardiasis-and-Coccidiosis-in-Puppies_21624-1.html
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/giardia-in-dogs
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/coccidiosis-in-dogs
Another area where these two protozoal organisms differ is how they are diagnosed. There is a snap test available for giardia, which tests for the protien that the organisms use to encyst themselves. Because of this, the snap test is not always reliable, as there will not be those protiens present in every stool. The protozoa will encyst when changes in the digestive tract indicate that they are about to be expelled. Once encysted, the protiens will dwindle and eventually there will be none left to create a positive test. Fecal float testing can, at times, be used to diagnose giardia, but it has a very low success rate as the organism is very very difficult to see, even under a microscope.
Coccidia, on the other hand, is usually diagnosed with a fecal float test. Still difficult to see, it is usually possible to find coccidia oocytes in the stool. Alternatively, a blood test may help to diagnose coccidia.
And these two parasites are also different in how they are treated. Coccidia is treated with Albon or Ponazuril, and often an antibiotic to ensure that no secondary infections set in. Giardia is treated with Panacur or Safeguard (a common wormer) and metronidazole, an antibiotic that not only helps to prevent secondary infections, but also appears to have some effect on the giardia organisms themselves.
There was a controversial vaccine for giardia on the market at one time. It was called Giardia Vax and was made by Fort Dodge. The controversy surrounded the debate over whether or not this vaccine actually benefits the animal. It did not prevent infection, and did not claim to. The vaccine claimed to reduce clinical symptoms and the amount of time the animal will shed the cysts. If the vaccine actually did this, it would be very beneficial to the animal because reduction of diarrhea would eliminate a whole host of problems associated with it, such as hypoglycemia and dehydration. Also, reducing the amount of time the cysts are shed may also help to reduce the risks of other animals becoming infected. However, research suggests that the vaccine has no effect on the presence of giardia in the stools of infected but asymptomatic dogs. Further, the vaccine is now very difficult to find, so it appears as though it may have been taken off the market.
In the end, there is no absolute cure for either of those parasites, unfortunately, except for the animal's body's own defenses. Dogs naturally carry coccidia in their digestive systems, but what makes the animal sick is the overwhelming rapidity with which these protozoas reproduce. This happens in puppies becaue of immature immune systems. Adult dogs rarely become ill from giardia or coccidia, but they may be carriers of the protozoa. If given time and a little help with the medicines mentioned above though, most animals will be able to rid themselves of these organisms.
The two most common intestinal parasites in canines, besides intestinal worms, are coccidia and giardia. Both of these organisms are protozoal and both can wreak havoc on the digestive system, especially of young puppies.
Coccidia and giardia usually present with almost identical symptoms. The beginning symptom is diarrhea, which usually will progress to a very watery stool and often will be bloody or blood streaked. Then you may begin to see some depression and fatigue, which are often the results of hypoglycemia and dehydration, brought about by the diarrhea. Some pups with coccidia or giardia will refuse food and water and some won't....usually though, it's those affected with giardia that refuse food and water because giardia often causes severe abdominal cramping.
Giardia infection usually takes place as a result of a contaminated water source, however, both coccidia and giardia cysts can live in the soil for quite some time, so it is possible for puppies to pick up the cysts in the soil and ingest them that way. Both protozoa can be passed from other infected dogs in feces as well.
Coccidia and giardia infect the host in similar ways. Cysts are picked up from soil or passed in fecal matter from infected animals and any animal that comes into contact with the cysts can become infected by picking up the cysts on it's paws and ingesting them when it cleans itself.
Once inside the host, giardia and coccidia begin to differentiate in how they act upon their hosts. For an indepth look at how these two protozoal parasites behave inside the host, click on the links below.
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/20_4/features/Giardiasis-and-Coccidiosis-in-Puppies_21624-1.html
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/giardia-in-dogs
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/coccidiosis-in-dogs
Another area where these two protozoal organisms differ is how they are diagnosed. There is a snap test available for giardia, which tests for the protien that the organisms use to encyst themselves. Because of this, the snap test is not always reliable, as there will not be those protiens present in every stool. The protozoa will encyst when changes in the digestive tract indicate that they are about to be expelled. Once encysted, the protiens will dwindle and eventually there will be none left to create a positive test. Fecal float testing can, at times, be used to diagnose giardia, but it has a very low success rate as the organism is very very difficult to see, even under a microscope.
Coccidia, on the other hand, is usually diagnosed with a fecal float test. Still difficult to see, it is usually possible to find coccidia oocytes in the stool. Alternatively, a blood test may help to diagnose coccidia.
And these two parasites are also different in how they are treated. Coccidia is treated with Albon or Ponazuril, and often an antibiotic to ensure that no secondary infections set in. Giardia is treated with Panacur or Safeguard (a common wormer) and metronidazole, an antibiotic that not only helps to prevent secondary infections, but also appears to have some effect on the giardia organisms themselves.
There was a controversial vaccine for giardia on the market at one time. It was called Giardia Vax and was made by Fort Dodge. The controversy surrounded the debate over whether or not this vaccine actually benefits the animal. It did not prevent infection, and did not claim to. The vaccine claimed to reduce clinical symptoms and the amount of time the animal will shed the cysts. If the vaccine actually did this, it would be very beneficial to the animal because reduction of diarrhea would eliminate a whole host of problems associated with it, such as hypoglycemia and dehydration. Also, reducing the amount of time the cysts are shed may also help to reduce the risks of other animals becoming infected. However, research suggests that the vaccine has no effect on the presence of giardia in the stools of infected but asymptomatic dogs. Further, the vaccine is now very difficult to find, so it appears as though it may have been taken off the market.
In the end, there is no absolute cure for either of those parasites, unfortunately, except for the animal's body's own defenses. Dogs naturally carry coccidia in their digestive systems, but what makes the animal sick is the overwhelming rapidity with which these protozoas reproduce. This happens in puppies becaue of immature immune systems. Adult dogs rarely become ill from giardia or coccidia, but they may be carriers of the protozoa. If given time and a little help with the medicines mentioned above though, most animals will be able to rid themselves of these organisms.
Monday, March 11, 2019
Parasites...The Worst Enemy of Man's Best Friend. Intestinal Worms
This week, I will begin a short series focusing on common parasites seen in our canine companions. The first topic, which I will cover this week, is intestinal worms. All dogs, no matter how well cared for, are susceptible to these parasites. Intestinal worms can make our furry friends very ill if left untreated, but the good news is, they are easy to treat. Here, I describe the most common types of worms and the best treatments for each.
We all hate them, and practically every dog gets them at least once in its life. Parasitic worms of the digestive tract are no fun to deal with, that's for sure. There are several types of parasitic worms, but the most common are, by far, roundworms, followed by tapeworms, hook worms and whip worms. Most types, if treated properly, pose little real threat to your dog. However, if left untreated, some dogs, especially puppies, can die from worm infestation blocking their intestinal flow.
Roundworms look a bit like spaghetti. They are long and brownish or pinkish white in color. Live roundworms can present in the stool before worming treatment is given. And dogs will expel dead roundworms after treatment. In some cases, puppies may be born with roundworm larva already in their digestive tracts, but they can also get them through nursing, which is why we worm at 2 weeks of age (the approximate time it takes for roundworm larva to mature.) The most common symptom of roundworm infestation is the presentation of live roundworms in the stool. But in some cases, roundworms can cause irritation in the bowel, which may lead to diarrhea. Especially in puppies, a severe roundworm infestation can cause a distended abdomen (which looks like a constantly full belly) accompanied by weight loss (you may even be able to see the puppy's ribs!).
Roundworms are usually treated with pyrantel pamoate, which is sold as Strongid T, Evict or variety of other names, including names that you can buy at our favorite place...Wal-Mart!! However, fenbendazole (sold as Safeguard or Panacur) will also rid your dog of roundworms and can be used to treat other types of worms as well (more info on this product below, in the discussion of whipworms)
Tapeworms can be a bit trickier. They can present before worming treatment is given as tiny segments that resemble bits of rice. Or, they can present as a long whitish worm that comes out as your dog potties and then sucks back up when he's finished. Or, they may not present at all. The symptoms are so few, and so few dogs get any of them, that you may not ever even know your dog is infected. The symptoms can include "growling tummies" and diarrhea.
Tape worms do attach to the intestinal wall, which is why they suck back up into the intestines after your dog potties. Because of this, they can cause some irritation in the intestines, which may lead to a bit of blood in the feces. Tapeworms are difficult to diagnose because they don't lay eggs inside their host, which is how most worms are detected in a fecal exam done by a vet. But, tapeworms are transmitted by fleas, so if your dog has fleas, there's a good chance he also has tapeworms.
Over the counter wormers will not have any affect on tapeworms. Praziquantel or Droncit are the prefered wormers for tapeworms. Dogs will not pass dead tapeworms after worming treatment because the wormers disolve the worm's outer covering so that the worm is digested by the dog's digestive tract.
Hookworms are interesting creatures. The most common way for your dogs to get hookworms is by walking in an area where an infected animal has left feces. Hookworm larva deposited into soil mature into free living organisms which can actually penetrate your dog's skin and infect the dog without the need for ingestion, which is required for most other worm infestation.
Symptoms of hookworm infestation are diarrhea (especially black, tarry diarrhea), vomiting, loss of appetite, weakness and in puppies, poor growth.
Dogs will not pass live hookworms prior to treatment, as the worms attach to the intestinal wall. These worms are very tiny and cannot be seen without the use of a microscope, which is why you will also never see them even after treatment. Your vet can test for the presence of hookworm eggs in a fecal exam though.
Hookworms are treated with pyrantel pamoate or fenbendazole (discussed below)
Whipworms are quite infectious, but the only way for your dog to get whipworms is to actually eat the egg. Whip worms bury their entire heads into the large intestine of the dog and they are not contagious to cats. Whipworms are also too tiny to see without a microscope, so you'll never see your dog pass them, even after treatment. Like most other worms besides the tapeworm, diagnosis is made with a fecal flotation exam which detects whipworm eggs.
Whipworms can be difficult to diagnose because they may not lay their eggs every day, so if you happen to take your dog to the vet for a fecal exam on a day that the worms aren't laying eggs, whipworm infestation can be easily overlooked. However, there are usually some signs of whipworm infestation, including diarrhea, especially diarrhea that comes and goes (colitis), and weight loss.
Whip worms are easy to treat using fenbendazole, marketed as Panacur. This really is the only wormer that will rid your dog of whipworms.
Now that you have a pretty good idea of the types of worms you may face with your dog and how to treat for them, you should be well equipped to keep your dog healthy and safe from these nasty parasites. The next topic in this series will cover other types of intestinal parasites.
We all hate them, and practically every dog gets them at least once in its life. Parasitic worms of the digestive tract are no fun to deal with, that's for sure. There are several types of parasitic worms, but the most common are, by far, roundworms, followed by tapeworms, hook worms and whip worms. Most types, if treated properly, pose little real threat to your dog. However, if left untreated, some dogs, especially puppies, can die from worm infestation blocking their intestinal flow.
Roundworms look a bit like spaghetti. They are long and brownish or pinkish white in color. Live roundworms can present in the stool before worming treatment is given. And dogs will expel dead roundworms after treatment. In some cases, puppies may be born with roundworm larva already in their digestive tracts, but they can also get them through nursing, which is why we worm at 2 weeks of age (the approximate time it takes for roundworm larva to mature.) The most common symptom of roundworm infestation is the presentation of live roundworms in the stool. But in some cases, roundworms can cause irritation in the bowel, which may lead to diarrhea. Especially in puppies, a severe roundworm infestation can cause a distended abdomen (which looks like a constantly full belly) accompanied by weight loss (you may even be able to see the puppy's ribs!).
Roundworms are usually treated with pyrantel pamoate, which is sold as Strongid T, Evict or variety of other names, including names that you can buy at our favorite place...Wal-Mart!! However, fenbendazole (sold as Safeguard or Panacur) will also rid your dog of roundworms and can be used to treat other types of worms as well (more info on this product below, in the discussion of whipworms)
Tapeworms can be a bit trickier. They can present before worming treatment is given as tiny segments that resemble bits of rice. Or, they can present as a long whitish worm that comes out as your dog potties and then sucks back up when he's finished. Or, they may not present at all. The symptoms are so few, and so few dogs get any of them, that you may not ever even know your dog is infected. The symptoms can include "growling tummies" and diarrhea.
Tape worms do attach to the intestinal wall, which is why they suck back up into the intestines after your dog potties. Because of this, they can cause some irritation in the intestines, which may lead to a bit of blood in the feces. Tapeworms are difficult to diagnose because they don't lay eggs inside their host, which is how most worms are detected in a fecal exam done by a vet. But, tapeworms are transmitted by fleas, so if your dog has fleas, there's a good chance he also has tapeworms.
Over the counter wormers will not have any affect on tapeworms. Praziquantel or Droncit are the prefered wormers for tapeworms. Dogs will not pass dead tapeworms after worming treatment because the wormers disolve the worm's outer covering so that the worm is digested by the dog's digestive tract.
Hookworms are interesting creatures. The most common way for your dogs to get hookworms is by walking in an area where an infected animal has left feces. Hookworm larva deposited into soil mature into free living organisms which can actually penetrate your dog's skin and infect the dog without the need for ingestion, which is required for most other worm infestation.
Symptoms of hookworm infestation are diarrhea (especially black, tarry diarrhea), vomiting, loss of appetite, weakness and in puppies, poor growth.
Dogs will not pass live hookworms prior to treatment, as the worms attach to the intestinal wall. These worms are very tiny and cannot be seen without the use of a microscope, which is why you will also never see them even after treatment. Your vet can test for the presence of hookworm eggs in a fecal exam though.
Hookworms are treated with pyrantel pamoate or fenbendazole (discussed below)
Whipworms are quite infectious, but the only way for your dog to get whipworms is to actually eat the egg. Whip worms bury their entire heads into the large intestine of the dog and they are not contagious to cats. Whipworms are also too tiny to see without a microscope, so you'll never see your dog pass them, even after treatment. Like most other worms besides the tapeworm, diagnosis is made with a fecal flotation exam which detects whipworm eggs.
Whipworms can be difficult to diagnose because they may not lay their eggs every day, so if you happen to take your dog to the vet for a fecal exam on a day that the worms aren't laying eggs, whipworm infestation can be easily overlooked. However, there are usually some signs of whipworm infestation, including diarrhea, especially diarrhea that comes and goes (colitis), and weight loss.
Whip worms are easy to treat using fenbendazole, marketed as Panacur. This really is the only wormer that will rid your dog of whipworms.
Now that you have a pretty good idea of the types of worms you may face with your dog and how to treat for them, you should be well equipped to keep your dog healthy and safe from these nasty parasites. The next topic in this series will cover other types of intestinal parasites.
Monday, February 18, 2019
Fighting Fido's Fat - Keeping Your Chihuahua at a Healthy Weight
With the indulgence of the holidays behind us, I am reminded of a common problem that we see with small breed dogs, weight issues! We are seeing more and more overweight dogs these days. It seems to me that the majority of these dogs are small breeds, but that may just be my imagination. I do know that being overweight is probably the worst condition that a Chihuahua can be in, and the same is true for many other breeds. Extra weight can be very hard on a Chihuahua's heart and joints. The added stress on the heart can cause congestive heart failure, or simply overwork the heart to the point where it cannot function properly. And the added stress of extra weight on the joints makes overweight Chihuahuas much more likely to develop arthritis, patella luxation and other joint problems. And, just as in people, an overweight Chihuahua is more likely to develop diabetes.
I'm not sure about other small breeds, but I know with Chihuahuas, the trouble is that some of them seem to have a natural tendency to become overweight. This is partly caused by the fact that, in many cases, their owners treat them like babies instead of like dogs. They are fed large amounts of table food, way too many treats and usually are not exercised enough. I've found that in most cases, this is the cause of the extra weight. But, I've seen a few cases where it wasn't the cause, so in some cases, it does seem to be a natural tendency.
I am very much in support of spaying and neutering pets. Unfortunately, altering a Chihuahua in such a way very often makes a weight problem worse, or causes a weight problem that wasn't there before. My grandparents had a Chihuahua when I was growing up who had been altered at a very early age. Normally, he would have been about a 5 pound dog, but just a few short years after he was neutered, he weighed 7 pounds. That's almost half again his normal weight. Look at it in terms of human weight. If a 150 pound person were to gain over 1/3 again their own body weight, they would weigh 200+ pounds, which would be significantly overweight. The same is true for Chihuahuas, even if it is on a smaller scale. However, I'm not telling you not to have your Chihuahua spayed or neutered. There are many health benefits to spaying and neutering your dogs. I'm simply saying be smart about your dog's diet after the procedure.
Determining if your dog is overweight is very simple. Put one hand on either side of his rib cage and gently feel his ribs. Your dog is at a normal weight if you can count his ribs under a thin layer of fat, but his ribs are not visible. If your dog's ribs are visible when you look at him, your dog is underweight. If there is a very thick layer of fat covering the ribs or you cannot feel his ribs at all without really pushing down, your dog is overweight. Another method to determine if your dog is at a healthy weight is to look down on his back from the top. His ribcage should round out the front part of his torso, without the ribs being visible. And his waist area should taper down past the ribcage into his hips, the bones of which also should not be visible. If there is no distinction between rib cage and abdominal area, your dog is overweight. If you can see the dog's ribs or hip bones, your dog is underweight.
It is relatively easy to manage a weight problem in most Chihuahuas. If you find that your dog is putting on unnecessary weight, my recommendation for your first step is to ensure that your dog is getting enough exercise. Chihuahuas really don't need a great deal of exercise, but believe it or not, some don't even get the little that they do need. Your Chihuahua should have a safe, fenced in area to run and play. It's been our experience that many Chihuahuas love to run, and of course, it's wonderful exercise for them. If your Chihuahua is allowed to run free, within the confines of a safe area, for 30 minutes a day, that should be sufficient exercise for him.
If the increased exercise is not helping the weight problem, the next step would be to cut back on and/or change your dog's treats. You can get many treats, such as PupCorn, which can be purchased at Wal-Mart, which are low in calories and very tasty..or at least that's what our dogs seem to think. Nutro Ultra also makes a lower calorie biscuit treat for dogs. Remember, treats are treats...not food for your dog. Your dog should not have more than 2-3 treats per day, and some vets say that's too many. So, to help manage a weight problem, use treats sparingly and consider switching your dog to a lower calorie treat. You may also consider switching to training treats. These are very small, generally semi-moist treats that your dog will love. These treats will allow you to praise your dog in a manner that he or she is used to, but each treat will be small, so the total daily calorie intake will drop dramatically.
Another tip for managing a dog's weight problem lies in the food that you feed. If your dog is gaining weight, stop and look at what you're feeding him. For starters, if you've been giving him a lot of table food, put a stop to that immediately. That puts weight on dogs quicker than anything. And if your dog's primary diet is moist can or pouch food, you'll want to switch him to a dry food as it is lower in fat. Moist foods are bad for your dog's teeth anyway. Put your dog on a quality weight management food. Purina One and Purina Pro Plan make excellent weight managemnet foods, as to many other brands. Today, even most holistic food lines include a weight management food. Other foods that will help with weight management are those that are made for dogs with allergies, such as Natural Balance. You may also consider fresh foods, such as Fresh Pet. These foods have no fillers in them, and are generally very balanced diets. However, there are drawbacks. They are very expensive, especially for large breeds, and they must stay refrigerated.
Whatever it takes to manage your dog's weight problem, we assure you it will be worth it because it will make for a happier, healthier dog that you can enjoy!
I'm not sure about other small breeds, but I know with Chihuahuas, the trouble is that some of them seem to have a natural tendency to become overweight. This is partly caused by the fact that, in many cases, their owners treat them like babies instead of like dogs. They are fed large amounts of table food, way too many treats and usually are not exercised enough. I've found that in most cases, this is the cause of the extra weight. But, I've seen a few cases where it wasn't the cause, so in some cases, it does seem to be a natural tendency.
I am very much in support of spaying and neutering pets. Unfortunately, altering a Chihuahua in such a way very often makes a weight problem worse, or causes a weight problem that wasn't there before. My grandparents had a Chihuahua when I was growing up who had been altered at a very early age. Normally, he would have been about a 5 pound dog, but just a few short years after he was neutered, he weighed 7 pounds. That's almost half again his normal weight. Look at it in terms of human weight. If a 150 pound person were to gain over 1/3 again their own body weight, they would weigh 200+ pounds, which would be significantly overweight. The same is true for Chihuahuas, even if it is on a smaller scale. However, I'm not telling you not to have your Chihuahua spayed or neutered. There are many health benefits to spaying and neutering your dogs. I'm simply saying be smart about your dog's diet after the procedure.
Determining if your dog is overweight is very simple. Put one hand on either side of his rib cage and gently feel his ribs. Your dog is at a normal weight if you can count his ribs under a thin layer of fat, but his ribs are not visible. If your dog's ribs are visible when you look at him, your dog is underweight. If there is a very thick layer of fat covering the ribs or you cannot feel his ribs at all without really pushing down, your dog is overweight. Another method to determine if your dog is at a healthy weight is to look down on his back from the top. His ribcage should round out the front part of his torso, without the ribs being visible. And his waist area should taper down past the ribcage into his hips, the bones of which also should not be visible. If there is no distinction between rib cage and abdominal area, your dog is overweight. If you can see the dog's ribs or hip bones, your dog is underweight.
It is relatively easy to manage a weight problem in most Chihuahuas. If you find that your dog is putting on unnecessary weight, my recommendation for your first step is to ensure that your dog is getting enough exercise. Chihuahuas really don't need a great deal of exercise, but believe it or not, some don't even get the little that they do need. Your Chihuahua should have a safe, fenced in area to run and play. It's been our experience that many Chihuahuas love to run, and of course, it's wonderful exercise for them. If your Chihuahua is allowed to run free, within the confines of a safe area, for 30 minutes a day, that should be sufficient exercise for him.
If the increased exercise is not helping the weight problem, the next step would be to cut back on and/or change your dog's treats. You can get many treats, such as PupCorn, which can be purchased at Wal-Mart, which are low in calories and very tasty..or at least that's what our dogs seem to think. Nutro Ultra also makes a lower calorie biscuit treat for dogs. Remember, treats are treats...not food for your dog. Your dog should not have more than 2-3 treats per day, and some vets say that's too many. So, to help manage a weight problem, use treats sparingly and consider switching your dog to a lower calorie treat. You may also consider switching to training treats. These are very small, generally semi-moist treats that your dog will love. These treats will allow you to praise your dog in a manner that he or she is used to, but each treat will be small, so the total daily calorie intake will drop dramatically.
Another tip for managing a dog's weight problem lies in the food that you feed. If your dog is gaining weight, stop and look at what you're feeding him. For starters, if you've been giving him a lot of table food, put a stop to that immediately. That puts weight on dogs quicker than anything. And if your dog's primary diet is moist can or pouch food, you'll want to switch him to a dry food as it is lower in fat. Moist foods are bad for your dog's teeth anyway. Put your dog on a quality weight management food. Purina One and Purina Pro Plan make excellent weight managemnet foods, as to many other brands. Today, even most holistic food lines include a weight management food. Other foods that will help with weight management are those that are made for dogs with allergies, such as Natural Balance. You may also consider fresh foods, such as Fresh Pet. These foods have no fillers in them, and are generally very balanced diets. However, there are drawbacks. They are very expensive, especially for large breeds, and they must stay refrigerated.
Whatever it takes to manage your dog's weight problem, we assure you it will be worth it because it will make for a happier, healthier dog that you can enjoy!
Monday, January 28, 2019
Immunizing Your Small Breed Dog.
I'm back after the holidays, and hope you all had a wonderful and restful holiday season. This first blog post of the new years is about vaccinating your Chihuahua or other small breed dog.
As immunizations go, we are in a time of what seems to be mass confusion. For both children and puppies, the "experts" can't seem to make up their minds whether we're overimmunizing or underimmunizing. That is because the very diseases that we immunize against are upredictable. They are invisible, they change and mutate, they appear once in very minor form and then come back later strong and virulent and wreak havoc on their vitcims...and on the minds of those who treat the victims.
The current train of thought among veterinarians seems to be that we over-vaccinate our dogs....at least our adult dogs. Many believe that once a dog has completed his puppy series, he may well have immunity for life. Others believe that while lifetime immunity may not be the case, yearly vaccinations are not necessary either...once every three years is what that school of thought recommends. Some say we should not bother to immunize for this disease, or that disease, at all. And in truth, there are some diseases, such as leptospirosis, that present so many different strains that it is impossible to immunize against them all. And for "lepto", the vaccination won't prevent infection...it'll simply mean that if your dog contracts it, he may become a carrier of it, infecting other animals, and you may not ever even know it. And then there are some clinical illnesses, such as kennel cough, that are almost always caused by more than one organism, and it is often difficult to determine which organisms are causing the problem, because there are several. Most people think "bordetella" when they hear "kennel cough" and while bordetella is very often part of the cause, it is rarely the entire problem and in fact, possibly may not be present at all. Fortunately, kennel cough is easy to treat and a rapid and complete recovery is almost always the outcome unless there are other factors present. And then you have at least one vaccination, for a protozoal disease called giardia, that will not prevent infection, but claims to reduce clinical signs and the amount of time that the animal sheds the disease. And, in reality, the same is true for parvovirus. Even a full series of shots and yearly boosters may not prevent your dog from getting parvo. It will, however, decrease the chances of your dog contracting parvo, and it will also significantly improve your dog's chances of survival.
In the end, the debate over whether and when to immunize stems from the necessity of it and relative safety of the vaccine itself. The "big 5", which is what I call the 5 diseases that all combination vaccines immunize against are Parainfluenza (a possible contributing factor for kennel cough), Adenovirus Type II (which offers cross immunity against Hepatitis also), Distemper, and Parvovirus. These vaccines are widely accepted as necessary and I, personally, agree. All vets give them as part of their puppy shots and also as part of their yearly boosters. I have never known the safety of these vaccines, in puppies, to be an issue. Some combination vaccines also include a vaccine for Coronavirus. This virus presents much like the Parvovirus and is often very difficult to diagnose, as there is no easy, in-house test that your vet can administer. Usually, Coronavirus is not as deadly as parvo, but it can still make your dog very sick. As with the "big 5" vaccines, I know of no safety issues, for puppies, with the Coronavirus vaccine. The safety of the bordetella vaccine is, to my knowledge, not in question, nor is the safety of the giardia vaccine for use in puppies. But, then we have the vaccine for leptospirosis. This vaccine is frightening to me, as the owner of the smallest breed in the world. At least one of the makers of this vaccine actually puts a warning on the label against vaccinating puppies and small dogs of any age with this vaccine at all. My vet doesn't use the vaccine in the first 2 puppy shots, but they do in the last two in the series because of the age and relative size of the puppies. But the "lepto" vaccine is known to cause some significant side effects, especially in small dogs.
When I say that I know of no safety issues in puppies, you must understand that what I mean is that the resulting immunity far outweighs the possible side effects of the vaccine. Also notice that I said "in puppies." This is because in adult dogs, the vaccines can actually have the opposite effect intended. This means that the dog's antibodies that were produced as a result of the puppy series of vaccinations, which may actually "fight off" the vaccine, instead of allowing the vaccine to help the dog's body to produce more antibodies, thereby rendering the vaccine completely ineffective and exposing your dog to the possible side effects, with absolutely no benefit.
Another consideration in vaccinating your puppy has to do with timing. When pups are born, they nurse from their mothers, right? During the first couple of days after birth, they are consuming colostrum, which is rich in antibodies for all of these diseases which the mother's body has produced. Depending on how aggressive a nurser each individual puppy is, and also dependant somewhat upon order of birth, each puppy may get a different amount of colostrum, with means that each pup would get a different amount of immunity from the mother. But, as the pups get older, the immunity that they get from the mother's milk gradually wears off. This is where it gets tricky. In most cases, if you immunize too early, you could face a situation where the maternal immunity is present enough to fight off the vaccine, rendering it completely ineffective. However, there may be a window where, while the maternal immunity kills off the vaccine, it's not strong enough to kill off an actual infection. This is part of the reason why we do puppy shots in a series, to try and present the vaccine into the puppy's system at the correct time, so that the maternal immunity cannot fight it all off, but before the puppy is actually exposed to any infectious disease, because each pup will be different in this timing.
Some say that there may be a solution to this problem. It's called a "high titer vaccine." What this means is that the vaccine contains more "antigens" (or infectious bodies) than the regular vaccine. The point of this is to introduce enough antigens into the body to bind up all the maternal antibodies that are present and still leave some antigens left over to stimulate the puppy's body to produce antibodies of its own. Theoretically, it sounds great. In practice, I'm not sure how well it will work, and the higher concentration of antigens may also lead to more severe reactions to these vaccines.
Finally, the rabies vaccine has become quite an issue in some areas. Most cities now require dogs to be registered, and the registration process includes a rabies vaccine. However, there are some things that you should know about the rabies vaccine before giving it to a small breed puppy. First, it is the strongest of the vaccines. We are more likely to see a reaction to the rabies vaccine than to any other vaccine except the Lepto vaccine. So, it is important not to give the rabies vaccine at the same time that other vaccines are given. We also suggest that you wait as long as possible before giving the rabies vaccine. The closer your puppy is to six months old, the better.
Also, be aware that vaccine manufacturers are now producing a three-year rabies vaccine. These are NOT recommended for small breed dogs of any age though. The original vaccine is strong enough, and the three-year vaccine is that much stronger. Like the other vaccinations, rabies is often a lifelong immunity, so there is no sense risking a reaction by giving that extra strength rabies shot. It is best to stick with the one-year vaccine for small dogs.
In the end, there is so much conflicting data regarding when, how, what and if to vaccinate that all we can really do is sort through it the best that we can, find a vet that we trust and follow his/her advise, and hope that we've done the best that we can for our animals.
Here is a link that we have found very informative in regards to vaccines and their possible side effects.
http://www.labbies.com/immun.htm
As immunizations go, we are in a time of what seems to be mass confusion. For both children and puppies, the "experts" can't seem to make up their minds whether we're overimmunizing or underimmunizing. That is because the very diseases that we immunize against are upredictable. They are invisible, they change and mutate, they appear once in very minor form and then come back later strong and virulent and wreak havoc on their vitcims...and on the minds of those who treat the victims.
The current train of thought among veterinarians seems to be that we over-vaccinate our dogs....at least our adult dogs. Many believe that once a dog has completed his puppy series, he may well have immunity for life. Others believe that while lifetime immunity may not be the case, yearly vaccinations are not necessary either...once every three years is what that school of thought recommends. Some say we should not bother to immunize for this disease, or that disease, at all. And in truth, there are some diseases, such as leptospirosis, that present so many different strains that it is impossible to immunize against them all. And for "lepto", the vaccination won't prevent infection...it'll simply mean that if your dog contracts it, he may become a carrier of it, infecting other animals, and you may not ever even know it. And then there are some clinical illnesses, such as kennel cough, that are almost always caused by more than one organism, and it is often difficult to determine which organisms are causing the problem, because there are several. Most people think "bordetella" when they hear "kennel cough" and while bordetella is very often part of the cause, it is rarely the entire problem and in fact, possibly may not be present at all. Fortunately, kennel cough is easy to treat and a rapid and complete recovery is almost always the outcome unless there are other factors present. And then you have at least one vaccination, for a protozoal disease called giardia, that will not prevent infection, but claims to reduce clinical signs and the amount of time that the animal sheds the disease. And, in reality, the same is true for parvovirus. Even a full series of shots and yearly boosters may not prevent your dog from getting parvo. It will, however, decrease the chances of your dog contracting parvo, and it will also significantly improve your dog's chances of survival.
In the end, the debate over whether and when to immunize stems from the necessity of it and relative safety of the vaccine itself. The "big 5", which is what I call the 5 diseases that all combination vaccines immunize against are Parainfluenza (a possible contributing factor for kennel cough), Adenovirus Type II (which offers cross immunity against Hepatitis also), Distemper, and Parvovirus. These vaccines are widely accepted as necessary and I, personally, agree. All vets give them as part of their puppy shots and also as part of their yearly boosters. I have never known the safety of these vaccines, in puppies, to be an issue. Some combination vaccines also include a vaccine for Coronavirus. This virus presents much like the Parvovirus and is often very difficult to diagnose, as there is no easy, in-house test that your vet can administer. Usually, Coronavirus is not as deadly as parvo, but it can still make your dog very sick. As with the "big 5" vaccines, I know of no safety issues, for puppies, with the Coronavirus vaccine. The safety of the bordetella vaccine is, to my knowledge, not in question, nor is the safety of the giardia vaccine for use in puppies. But, then we have the vaccine for leptospirosis. This vaccine is frightening to me, as the owner of the smallest breed in the world. At least one of the makers of this vaccine actually puts a warning on the label against vaccinating puppies and small dogs of any age with this vaccine at all. My vet doesn't use the vaccine in the first 2 puppy shots, but they do in the last two in the series because of the age and relative size of the puppies. But the "lepto" vaccine is known to cause some significant side effects, especially in small dogs.
When I say that I know of no safety issues in puppies, you must understand that what I mean is that the resulting immunity far outweighs the possible side effects of the vaccine. Also notice that I said "in puppies." This is because in adult dogs, the vaccines can actually have the opposite effect intended. This means that the dog's antibodies that were produced as a result of the puppy series of vaccinations, which may actually "fight off" the vaccine, instead of allowing the vaccine to help the dog's body to produce more antibodies, thereby rendering the vaccine completely ineffective and exposing your dog to the possible side effects, with absolutely no benefit.
Another consideration in vaccinating your puppy has to do with timing. When pups are born, they nurse from their mothers, right? During the first couple of days after birth, they are consuming colostrum, which is rich in antibodies for all of these diseases which the mother's body has produced. Depending on how aggressive a nurser each individual puppy is, and also dependant somewhat upon order of birth, each puppy may get a different amount of colostrum, with means that each pup would get a different amount of immunity from the mother. But, as the pups get older, the immunity that they get from the mother's milk gradually wears off. This is where it gets tricky. In most cases, if you immunize too early, you could face a situation where the maternal immunity is present enough to fight off the vaccine, rendering it completely ineffective. However, there may be a window where, while the maternal immunity kills off the vaccine, it's not strong enough to kill off an actual infection. This is part of the reason why we do puppy shots in a series, to try and present the vaccine into the puppy's system at the correct time, so that the maternal immunity cannot fight it all off, but before the puppy is actually exposed to any infectious disease, because each pup will be different in this timing.
Some say that there may be a solution to this problem. It's called a "high titer vaccine." What this means is that the vaccine contains more "antigens" (or infectious bodies) than the regular vaccine. The point of this is to introduce enough antigens into the body to bind up all the maternal antibodies that are present and still leave some antigens left over to stimulate the puppy's body to produce antibodies of its own. Theoretically, it sounds great. In practice, I'm not sure how well it will work, and the higher concentration of antigens may also lead to more severe reactions to these vaccines.
Finally, the rabies vaccine has become quite an issue in some areas. Most cities now require dogs to be registered, and the registration process includes a rabies vaccine. However, there are some things that you should know about the rabies vaccine before giving it to a small breed puppy. First, it is the strongest of the vaccines. We are more likely to see a reaction to the rabies vaccine than to any other vaccine except the Lepto vaccine. So, it is important not to give the rabies vaccine at the same time that other vaccines are given. We also suggest that you wait as long as possible before giving the rabies vaccine. The closer your puppy is to six months old, the better.
Also, be aware that vaccine manufacturers are now producing a three-year rabies vaccine. These are NOT recommended for small breed dogs of any age though. The original vaccine is strong enough, and the three-year vaccine is that much stronger. Like the other vaccinations, rabies is often a lifelong immunity, so there is no sense risking a reaction by giving that extra strength rabies shot. It is best to stick with the one-year vaccine for small dogs.
In the end, there is so much conflicting data regarding when, how, what and if to vaccinate that all we can really do is sort through it the best that we can, find a vet that we trust and follow his/her advise, and hope that we've done the best that we can for our animals.
Here is a link that we have found very informative in regards to vaccines and their possible side effects.
http://www.labbies.com/immun.htm
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